Shifter got stuck in nuetral????

[msinc]

Yesterday I was out for a drive. I have a close ratio {big input shaft} 4 speed toploader transmission that has always shifted easily and without issue gearbox wise. I was sitting at a light and had to adjust my foot on the clutch pedal so I shifted to neutral, let off the pedal and when I went to prepare to go the shifter stuck hard in neutral. I was unable to get it to go into any forward gear. After frantically trying to get something I finally decided to try reverse. I lifted the lockout and it went. Then when I tried a forward gear again it finally "released" from being stuck and was fine. Hasn't done it since. Now I am worried to drive the car for fear it will lock up again and not release. Anyone had the problem and even better, anyone "fix" it???? This car only has 3200 miles on it and a recent look at the shifter sure didn't look like it had any wear. It's a Hurst and I have always had trouble telling or getting it from 1-2 to 3-4 or back. Never had an issue with reverse. What I mean is, often I think I have it in 1st gear at a light and it is really in 3rd. The car is so light and the engine so strong it will still take right off no problem but I am already in 3rd gear. Not a lot of left to right movement for neutral in this shifter. I know the gear box itself can cause a lot of shifting trouble, but this one really shifts up {or down} very easily when the car is in motion, so I don't believe it's a gearbox issue. Is there a "better" shifter??? Any information is greatly appreciated and as always, thanks in advance!!!!!!

[1795]

Check the bushings on the linkage. If you have the nylon bushings, remove them and replace them with the metall ones. The nylon ones will wear and it only takes a little bit of slop to misalign things.

[cycleguy55]

Originally Posted by 1795

Check the bushings on the linkage. If you have the nylon bushings, remove them and replace them with the metall ones. The nylon ones will wear and it only takes a little bit of slop to misalign things.

I agree. This sounds like a shifter adjustment issue, and those nylon bushings make that more likely.

To the OP: Hurst shifters are generally pretty easy to adjust, but I know the ability to insert the 1/4" "neutral alignment rod" can be a challenge on Cobras due to the limited space between the transmission and tunnel wall. My car has a Richmond 5 speed street transmission with a Hust shifter and there's no room to insert the pin.

When I had the transmission out last year I took the opportunity to insert the "neutral alignment rod" and get the shift rods carefully adjusted. I then carefully secured the adjustments before removing the shifter to re-install the transmission. It's never shifted better.

Hurst instructions: https://www.shifterdoc.com/Hurst_373...nstuctions.pdf

[1795]

Originally Posted by cycleguy55

I agree. This sounds like a shifter adjustment issue, and those nylon bushings make that more likely.

To the OP: Hurst shifters are generally pretty easy to adjust, but I know the ability to insert the 1/4" "neutral alignment rod" can be a challenge on Cobras due to the limited space between the transmission and tunnel wall. My car has a Richmond 5 speed street transmission with a Hust shifter and there's no room to insert the pin.

When I had the transmission out last year I took the opportunity to insert the "neutral alignment rod" and get the shift rods carefully adjusted. I then carefully secured the adjustments before removing the shifter to re-install the transmission. It's never shifted better.

Hurst instructions: https://www.shifterdoc.com/Hurst_373...nstuctions.pdf

As Brian said, it can be difficult getting the neutral alignment rod in there. If the rod is too long, a drill bit or any other short rod of the correct diameter will work. When you have the car up in the air and are re-adjusting linkages, make sure that you can turn the driveshaft by hand when it is in neutral. Also, take a picture of the linkage orientation before taking anything apart, once they are un hooked it can be a little confusing regarding their proper placement.

Jim

[msinc]

Thanks fellas, I will give this a try. A local guy told me that you should not sit with the car at idle stopped, while holding the clutch in and try to go thru the gears. That alone can cause it to lock up. He says it happens all the time and that the Muncie is the worst offender...I have never heard of such thing, but then again I might have just been lucky all these years. Have redone several toploaders, been a while, but I never had any issues with them shifting as long as the clutch released fully and the blocker rings and dog teeth were all good. Maybe I am wrong, but that is a new one on me. Thanks again for the info!!!!!!M

[byron w]

Happened to me once. since then I lubricate with white lithium spray grease from time to time. Never a problem since

[Unique427]

If your going to replace the plastic nylon linkage
bushings read below.

I have a big input Toploader / Hurst Comp setup.

Nylon bushings will "smear" with time and
aggressive driving. Alignment issues follow.

Hurst Pit Pak metal bushings are made from
sintered (powdered) metal and can crack.
Flange is smaller then what's on nylon bushing
because of material used.

The bushings from 5speeds.com are tool steel
designed by Paul Cangialosi. These are dimensionally
identical to the Hurst nylon bushings.

My shifter is way smoother now with Paul's bushings
and gear changes are effortless. I can power row
every gear without hesitation!! Paul also redesigned
the bushing retention clips to eliminate falling out.
Been on the car now (4) season without issue.
Bushings + retention pins kit = $20.

https://www.5speeds.com/cart/index.p...&product_id=76

Paul describes the feature/function/benefit of
tool steel bushings in this Youtube video.
Very enlightening. Start at 1:30 mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_40q7wbeoRQ

[byron w]

thank you Unique 427 for the information.

[msinc]

Thanks again Unique 427!!!! Just ordered a set!!!

[msinc]

Thought I would do a quick follow up on this....I ordered the bushings and clips that were recommended by Unique427 above. Thanks again for that info. Paul is a very nice guy to talk to, very informative and helpful and he is a lightning fast shipper!!! I got the bushings in two days....I did the install and carefully adjusted all the rods. So far all is good!!! I am calling it fixed until I have a different result. I would recommend this bushing and clip set to anyone with a Hurst shifter!!! They positively stop just about all lash or unwanted movement in the shifter rods. My plastic factory ones didn't have a lot of time on them, the car has 3100 miles on it. But they were pretty loose and wobbly. Not no more!!!! There is not much for a Cobra you can spend $20.00 on and get a good solid improvement out of........M

[Unique427]

Originally Posted by msinc

Thought I would do a quick follow up on this....I ordered the bushings and clips that were recommended by Unique427 above. Thanks again for that info. Paul is a very nice guy to talk to, very informative and helpful and he is a lightning fast shipper!!! I got the bushings in two days....I did the install and carefully adjusted all the rods. So far all is good!!! I am calling it fixed until I have a different result. I would recommend this bushing and clip set to anyone with a Hurst shifter!!! They positively stop just about all lash or unwanted movement in the shifter rods. My plastic factory ones didn't have a lot of time on them, the car has 3100 miles on it. But they were pretty loose and wobbly. Not no more!!!! There is not much for a Cobra you can spend $20.00 on and get a good solid improvement out of........M

That's good news.
Yup, solving a frustrating problem
for $20 is hard to beat. Bravo!!!