SPF Electricals -

STL Mark · #1 (**permalink**) 12-19-2008, 03:53 PM

I noticed that my anmeter jumps. So, at idle it's steady and reads just on the positive side. But at highway speeds (and only at highway speeds) it has a rythemic bounce in the positive. Normal?
No performance symptoms - is it a short? Loose belt? A symptom of something else?

Blas · #2 (**permalink**) 12-19-2008, 05:21 PM

Goopie:
A cold beer says it's the reversed fan...hahahaha

Blas · #3 (**permalink**) 12-19-2008, 05:25 PM

STL_Mark...
First, Like I mentioned below:
Check the wire connections on the back of the AMP meter visually - look clean & secure?
Check the wire connections on the starter solenoid on the firewall (that's the power source for the AMP meter) - look clean & secure?
Check the wire connections on back of the alternator - look tight, clean & secure?
REMEMBER - We are talking wiring that is always "HOT" so do your inspect ions with CAUTION.
Send me a message to my email address listed below and I'll send you my home number to call.
Let me know what the result is.

Blas · #4 (**permalink**) 12-19-2008, 05:32 PM

One other thing regarding the AMP bouncing issue, we'll do the cheap stuff first.
There are two main grounds on these cars. One back by the battery and one on the chassis, passenger side, below the starter. Hi-Tech put a fantastic layer of black paint on these chassis's - And they paint the grounding lug just as nice...I would suggest that you get under there, remove the grounding cable (up front) wire brush that grounding lug to a metal finish, reinstall the cable using a star locking washer, and then a little di-electric grease to prevent corrosion. You can usually get a little packet of the grease at the parts stores. This takes a little time and effort, but has cured many ill's with the cars...try it....

Blas · #5 (**permalink**) 12-20-2008, 03:40 PM

Anyone with cars #2600 and above: If you get a chance, check the fuses for your cooling fan motors for me....Drop-down fusepanel - fusebox towards drivers side - 5 & 6 slots down Anyone NOT have 20amp fuses in these both locations?

ekrupa2 · #6 (**permalink**) 01-05-2009, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blas

Anyone with cars #2600 and above: If you get a chance, check the fuses for your cooling fan motors for me....Drop-down fusepanel - fusebox towards drivers side - 5 & 6 slots down Anyone NOT have 20amp fuses in these both locations?

Blas - #2632 has 20 amp fuses...

DON BEVERS · #7 (**permalink**) 12-20-2008, 07:50 PM

Okay Blas-
I hope you can help me with this one.
Chassis no. spo-2571, the tach will follow the engine rpm to about 3000 then will drop to 0 as the motor gains rpm. Tach will pick rpm back up at about 3000 again as the rpm falls. It seems to function normally at 3000 and under.
Back ground on the car is, Accel dfi Thruster controlling the timing thru the new MSD digital 6a. The tach signal is sent out via the tach output on the MSD box.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Blas · #8 (**permalink**) 12-20-2008, 08:06 PM

Don,
I'm not well versed in fuel injection control systems...
Lets check a couple easy things first.
I'm assuming there is no drop-off in power when the tach goes weird...
Check to be sure you have a good, clean, tight ground and power wires to the MSD box...(These are the red & black heavy wires to the box)
Check all the wire connection crimps in and out of the MSD box too. FYI: It's usually a white wire feeding the tach from the side of the MSD box.
Can you check the connection on the back of the tach to be sure it's seated properly? Carefully thread your hand up there and lightly push.
Pop open your distributor and look at the center carbon electrode...does it look like all the rest? Not worn down or burned looking? That would be because the connection to the rotor is arching if it was not touching the carbon button, or because it's bent up too much rubbing the button off.
Let me know...we'll go from there....