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Broken spinner on SPF
Well now I've done it! I was taking the spinner off with a lead hammer the other day and the ear broke off. I carefully tried working on the other two ears and another broke off. So know I have a stuck spinner with one ear left.
I have had these wheels off in the past with no problems. I have read about using heat and cold to get these off...any other sugessions out there? |
Spray the hub/spinner liberally with "PB Blaster." It's a penetrating oil that works great on freeing-up rusted bolts, etc. Let it sit overnight before attempting to whack that third ear.
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I had the same issues after the winter, and did the penetrating lube trick and let it sit for 12 hours. Came back, heated just the spinner and lightly tapped around the broken ears...then nailed the good ear and it came loose. Good luck!
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Finish Line has a spinner tool that might help, depending how much of the ears are still there. Look on their website under "wheels". Also, make sure when you reinstall to coat the threads with anti-seize.
www.finishlineaccessories.com |
I have a complete set of spf spinners I'd like to sell and it sounds like you could use them. What is your spf build number?
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Ed, I could use your spinners, my spf number is 1163.
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Turning it in the right direction?
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Use anti-seize and loosen at least every winter, then you will be fine. The dissimilar metals do not do well w/o lubricant.
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You might also consider the steel spinners -- they're less prone to breaking and tend to get a nicer patina.;)
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I broke both rear spinners on my SPF about a week ago installing my new rear shock mounts. They looked pretty porous after they broke off. They are about $80 each direct from Superformance. I had anti-seize and everything on them. I also have the spinner tool from Finish Line. It really take 2 people to use that. A good dead blow hammer will work also but you have to get a pretty heavy one. I have the lead hammer too and between the three I got it off. I'd hate to have to do it on the side of the road. Good luck.
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The one ti,e I broke an ear off a spinner was whacking it the WRONG way.
Make sure you have it right...check the manual. Always tighten to the rear and loosen to the front of the car. I got forged and polished replacements from Vintage Wheels. I have a couple too if you need 'em. |
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another solution is to use BRE hex nuts instead of spinners. This way they can be easily removed with a 2.5" socket and breaker bar. These are the standard set up on SPF Coupes that use BRE competition grade alloy wheels. check www.BRE2.net Badger
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If SPF are set up as MKI,II,III and IV a fairly good way to remember is "tight ass" or hit 12 oclock ear towards rear (on either side) to remove. To be honest, I still have to think about it every time I remove one. You might consider a thorough cleaning of male and female threads at each wheel removal and very very liberal use of anti seize. Realistic tightening and safety wire each ear so that it is prevented from turning toward the front (12 oclock ear) on each side.
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Two Reasons
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I did take the photos though, but now I can't find the thread that I was referring to. I'll just start a new thread on it entitled "Aesthetically Pleasing Safety Wire Twists." |
:LOL:
patrickt, Nice cover up for a brain dead moment. I have a paper with it written on it that the loosen toward the back and tighten toward the front that I have hung on my garage wall. I don't trust my memory that well. Ron :LOL: |
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I've got a short attention span. What were we talking about here? :confused::LOL: |
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