Curious -- are you quick-jacks functional?
 

Yes or no? If yes, what material are they made of, and how are they attached to the frame to be able to support the weight?

Cheers,
-Neil.

..they once were...
 

Most of the Quick-Jacks on replicas today are purely ornamental....held in place with a double-nutted stove bolt.

quik jack lugs
 

most of the "replica" lugs are installed backwards to start with , outward instead of inward like raced in the early days. those things would tear your leg up if you got into them so they were turned inward. yes to answer your question, on a replica FIA with standard grade bolts (no stove/carriage bolts) they will lift the SB car, but who has a jack anymore, and take the chance on it dropping off and tearing up the underside, even a replica instead of an FIA, and on level pavement, thanks bob!

Agreed! I would do/trust this, but just curious if anyone else has. There's gotta be someone out there who's setup a non-orig Cobra for this.

Quick Jacks are STRICTLY ORNAMENTAL on stock SPF"s. Bill.

As far as I know, the FIA's jack pads were turned inward, but the 427's headed out. All were made of steel. Things were mighty crude back then. :eek:

Under the best of circumstances, they didn't work very well - as witnessed by the distortion of the holes in many of the original race cars. They required that the car and "jack" be on a very even surface so that both pads were stressed the same.

I would not be afraid using the quick jacks to lift the car if they are mounted properly.

The material of the jacks themselves, say 3/8" of steel or even aluminum is plenty, but is the mounting method strong enough?

Dominik

I'm surprised at the question.. You want to lift the car with the Quick Jacks? I thought they were there to knock you on the head every time you come up from under the car! They're are very good at that! I have lots of knots on my head to proove it!! :-)

good point,

plus you need to build a jack to lift the car and a garage to allow for some 6 feet of lever action for that jack.

who has that (front and rear)?

dom

jacks
 

Does any body have a pattern for the jack plates or know where I can find the proper dems?
gn

Lift jack pattern
 

The correct hole spacing vertically is 2 1/4" inches both front and rear with 3/8" holes. 3/4" round stock as the support rods. Depending on individual application you could use all thread through the entire assembly or use 3/8" studs into the lift jack itself and studs or another attaching method behind the bodywork to anchor the support rods. The distance between centers on a 289 in front is 30". For 289 & 427 in the rear is 31".

Measure twice cut once!

Rick

jacks:
 

I was interested in the dem/pattern of the jack itself.
ould someone trace one and post it?
gn

My would work (once).

BTW: I cut mine out of aluminum angle stock (3/8" t) and they polished up great. I also used aluminum all thread ($36 for all 8 lengths) because I was in a weight savings mode back then.

Of course all I really needed to do was lose my beer gut and put the $36 back into my wallet.

scratch

On my car is use them with a floor jack to get the car up 2 or 3 inches so that I can get the "real" floor jack under the frame.

I suppose I could raise the ride height a little........nah!

:3DSMILE:

jacks
 

No, don't put the jack of the "jacks"
Just get a 2x12 or 2 2x12 about 3 ft long and drive the car up on the 2x12's boards lying on the floor; thus raising the car enough to get the floor jack under.
gn

Tried that - thanks!

My way works just fine for me- the ERA bumper mounts handle it with no problem.

:)

I agree with Niles.

The secret to well mounted - and secure - quick jacks is the tolerances between the mounting shafts and the actual tubes. Problem is, the tubes most suppliers use is a standard 3/8" aluminum or stainless tube, but the fit of a 3/8" shaft is still loose.

Theoretically, the best way (but most expensive and time consuming) to do it would be to obtain the proper OD stainless stock and precision bore the mounting shaft holes. That way, properly set up, there would be next to zero opportunity for that assembly to shift.

My car is set up as original for quick jacks, but I can guarantee they will never be used. Why? Because I'm just not going to risk some type of deformation to a finely (and expensively) finished body when a floor jack is safer and easier.

Believe it or not, there are very inexpensive floor jacks available in the $75 - 125 range that have the needed 3 1/4 to 3 1/2 lowered saddle height. The garden variety jacks with a 5" plus saddle height are worthless for these cars. It took me a while to find one, but it was worth it. Spending $500 - 750 on a so called NASCAR jack is ridiculous............spend the difference on your car!

If anyone is interested, log onto www.salesco.com and under "floor jacks" check out Model # 225MX. I bought one and it's great......and $69.95

Bud:JEKYLHYDE

I measured and cut twice, it's still to short.......
Ernie

The best use I've encountered for them is listening to the inevitable "expert" explain to his buddies that they are tow bar brackets, and that the owner of the car is an uninformed idiot for putting them in the rear too. :p

Neil,

Here are a few pics of the front quickjacks on our EM which are functional. The stainless sleeves are not installed in these photos but they slide right over the 9/16" bolts that we use for the supports. They work great and can be used with a normal floor jack if you so desire. The rear ones are also functional, but I don't have any pics of them handy at the moment. Of course, the rear of the car is high enough where I can just jack up on the center section of the 9" housing...

http://www.pbase.com/mjb2/quickjacks


Mike