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No I didn't know I needed to bench bleed. This could be my problem.
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It is a good standatd practice to get into. It will help show problems before they become hard to find and it will make bleeding the system a simpler process.
Rick |
Success!!!!
I now have brakes in good working order. Thanks guys for all of your help. Happy Motoring |
You can't get off that easy Roger! What did you do?
Rick |
We removed the cylinder for the front brakes, inspected it and did not find a problem.
When reassembled the system we unscrewed the clevis ( the brass fitting that the balance bar threads through ) a few turns so we could get more pedal throw. We then bleed the front and back brakes ( on side at a time as mentioned in this thread ). I suspect we were not getting enough pedal throw to get all of the air out of the system. It will be warm enough to drive tomorrow so I will give the brakes a try on the open road ( tonights tests were just in the driveway) I'm glad to have this problem behind me! Next step is to install the soft top and heater. Thanks again |
So the piston in the master cylinders where not fully returning when the pedal was released?
Thanks Rick |
In a conventional car the master cylinders sit high on the firewall and brake bleeding is not a problem and it can be done with one person using a brake bleeding tool.
Tiltons/Wilwood or others underfloor pedal system it is the reverse, The master cylinder bottles are mounted at floor level making the process is difficult.Sure- follow Tiltons Direction and the trick is that the bottles should be mounted high enough or raise the vehicle so as the M/C are higher than your calipers to facilitate bleeding. |
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