Need Oil?

[Ed Csoltko]

Since I sold my FFR, I have 18 quarts of 20W-50 Castrol GTX oil I can't use. Anyone in Austin interested, call me at 512-288-0446.

[jetenginedoctor]

To add to this, I'm selling all my Mobil-1 motor oil. Right off the top of my head, I've got two cases (total of 12 quarts) of 20w50. This is the older formulation (from 2002, actually) when they still used PAO (polyalphaolepfin) base stocks in their oil. I'd like $5 per quart, or $50 for all 12.

Reason for selling: I'm using a better oil than Mobil-1 these days (Amsoil) and would rather have that space on the shelf for tools and Cobra parts.

Let me know if you're interested. I can bring them to the "meeting" tomorrow.

BK

[cobraduke]

I'll take all 12 for $50. I'm only at the meet Saturday, March 25, arriving about 9 AM from College Station. I have a red/white striped Excalibur, probably have the tan top up. How can I hook up with you? Thanks.

[barabar]

It is about the zink content in oil. There is only about 4 brands of oil out there that fit the bill. Delo 400 15-40 is the best for the money. If you are runing solids and triple valve springs, after break in check the bottom of the lifter to the cam, if it shows any where (that is where the rubber meets the road) you need to change them and up your zink.
Yes synthetic may give you more viscosity at higher heat( 300+) but if you are runing that hot you have other problems.
AF Morrow

[jetenginedoctor]

Originally Posted by barabar

It is about the zink content in oil. There is only about 4 brands of oil out there that fit the bill. Delo 400 15-40 is the best for the money. If you are runing solids and triple valve springs, after break in check the bottom of the lifter to the cam, if it shows any where (that is where the rubber meets the road) you need to change them and up your zink.
Yes synthetic may give you more viscosity at higher heat( 300+) but if you are runing that hot you have other problems.
AF Morrow

Actually, this isn't entirely true.

The API SJ specification did require many oil companies to greatly change the formulation of their oils to reduce the amount of phosphorus because of the concerns of the automobile manufacturers regarding the possibility of phosphorus poisoning the catalytic converters. The makers of petroleum based motor oils had to make more drastic formulation changes than the makers of synthetic oils as synthetic oils rely less on ZDP or ZDDP and other additives to provide the level of wear protection necessary to prevent damage to sliding surfaces within the engine such as flat tappet valve train components.

There is much more to the benefits of synthetic lubricants than being more viscocity stable, better shear resistance, and volitility than refined petroleum based lubricants. Synthetic oils have a tremendously unfair advantage over refined petroleum oils, and the issues discussed here are just the start. Though I'm replacing all the lubricants both in my shop and in my garage at home with Amsoil lubricants, there's nothing at all wrong with the Mobil 1 that I've offered here, and I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to run it in ANY engine. In fact, the only reason I haven't already used this oil is because none of my vehicles require an oil this heavy. I build my engines with clearances suitable for SAE-30 oils, and my Cummins diesel runs Amsoil 10w-40 with 25,000 mile drain intervals. You can't do that with Mobil 1, or I'd just run it in the truck.

Anyway, sorry for the hijack. I'll have more oil up for sale here shortly.

BK

[CSX 4027]

Just use Valvoline Race only non street legal. It's all you need. Change it after every 500 miles and you're good to go.
NOT THEIR VRI

[Gregg(What's his name)?]

We haven't seen you guys in awhile. I hope everything is ok? We missed you and Cathy at the packet stuffing party

Gregg H.

[CSX 4027]

No Problem

Want to see what we know or I know, Come to our shop in NJ.
We keep the proof as a reminder of what oils to run.

Every engine builder has lost cam lobes in a flat tappet application at one time or another. Right? I know we have. That's why we do research.

We chart the wear on flat tappet cams with different oils.

We feed our motors what they want not what we want to feed them.

Since you have such in depth experience you must have lost cams as well.
I guess you blame the cam.

Joe Gibbs, Comp Cams, Brad Penn, Valvoline, etc think different and have put out many bulletins. If you haven't seen it in print, here is one
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...l_summary.html

[jetenginedoctor]

I won't dispute that in very EXTREME cases that what you're saying is true. What I'm disputing here, is that you're preaching that everyone run racing oil and drain the sump every 500 miles. THAT, I think is not only a waste, but it's pretty irresponsible.

How many people do you think that are building Cobra replicas (or any other street driven hot-rod for that matter) are building engines that legitimately NEED race oil and 500 mile drain intervals? I would say that anyone putting together engines with cam lobes that aggressive and spring pressures that high and putting them in street cars makes about as much sense as bolting a space shuttle solid rocket booster to a commuter airliner. YES, in a TRUE RACING ENGINE, you need to use a race only oil, and when using alcohol or other corrosive fuels, you've GOT to drain the sump frequently to prevent internal engine damage. But these same engines seldom idle under 2000 RPM, are bolted to stall converters far too loose to drive on the street and/or clutches that are on-off switch binary in operation. How many do I see in cars that are driven on the street? Almost none. The handful of folks I've seen with this type of engine in a "street car" quickly detune the things or change engines in order to make the car livable in the street.

I've had a good number of my customers buy Cup engines and then detune them with milder cams and lighter valvesprings to make them live longer and give them some semblance of drivability. Again, these are RACECAR customers, not street car customers. Only the hardest of the hardcore would want or need something like that in a street car. Frankly, I don't think that most Cobra enthusiasts (or any any other model/maker for that matter) are willing to live with the headaches of a true racecar engine on the street.

YMMV

Anyway, I can't stop you from preaching to people to waste money with race oil and weekly oil changes. At least I can rest well knowing I didn't let you do so unchallenged.

BK

[Gregg(What's his name)?]

This thread is about who wants to buy up some of Ed's oil that he has no use for.
If I have to I will but both of you two in the corner for a time out!

Gregg H

[CSX 4027]

You just don't get it.
The article's don't say race oil for race engines.
They say race oil for all flat tappet engines period.
Irresponsible to dump oil every 500 to save a 25,000 motor? Hardly.
More irresponsible to drive a Cobra kit. A car with no safety that pollutes the air.
Have you considered a Hyundai?
You seem to be a young tekkie guy good at electronics. Teach that.
Were you born by the 60's?

[Gregg(What's his name)?]

What does my birthday have to do with getting you guys to knock it off. This thread is about buying some oil from a fellow TCC member. If I want a lecture about what type of oil I will go back to college.

Now play nice boys!

Gregg H

[jetenginedoctor]

Originally Posted by CSX 4027

You just don't get it.
The article's don't say race oil for race engines.
They say race oil for all flat tappet engines period.
Irresponsible to dump oil every 500 to save a 25,000 motor? Hardly.
More irresponsible to drive a Cobra kit. A car with no safety that pollutes the air.
Have you considered a Hyundai?
You seem to be a young tekkie guy good at electronics. Teach that.
Were you born by the 60's?

You're an idiot.

Your finest logic is that since I'm too young to carry an AARP card, I couldn't possibly know ****? Let's compare career paths and paychecks, grandpa. Your grey hair and growing bald spot do in no way make you smarter than me.

You are right, I'm good at electronics (among many other things) and I DO teach that. I'll sleep soundly tonight knowing that not only do you know know a damn thing about tribology, you probably don't know a damn thing about "young tekkie guy stuff" like "them 'lectronics" and are probably scared as hell of any circuit with complexity exceeding that of installing a new starting battery.

So what's your excuse? You want to take a shot at me because of my age and for having a technical background that soundly eclipses your own. What next? What else have you got besides barrels full of waste oil? Just because you and your "partner" (I hear same sex civil unions are all the rage in New Jersey) can't keep an engine from flying apart doesn't mean it has anything to do with oil, nor does it mean that it's a good idea to change oil every 500 miles.

People like you make me wish I didn't love cars so much.

BK

[CSX 4027]

You might grow up one day.
You talk a lot and say very little.
Lashing out calling names when this is a forum of opinions and proof of those opiniions just shows your level of sophistication.
Wanna put one of your flat tappets against mine for a dyno session? Winner takes both motors home. Equal parts/same spec flat tappet. Wanna bet yours will shed more to the oil filter on break in? Mine will be clean.
Wanna pony up sonnie boy. Gramps gonna whup ya.
Or go play with you gameboy. Momma's callin

[jetenginedoctor]

Originally Posted by CSX 4027

You might grow up one day.
You talk a lot and say very little.
Lashing out calling names when this is a forum of opinions and proof of those opiniions just shows your level of sophistication.
Wanna put one of your flat tappets against mine for a dyno session? Winner takes both motors home. Equal parts/same spec flat tappet. Wanna bet yours will shed more to the oil filter on break in? Mine will be clean.
Wanna pony up sonnie boy. Gramps gonna whup ya.
Or go play with you gameboy. Momma's callin

You're a sad example of your generation. It pains me that people like you will have spent the last of the money I've paid into Social Security during my lifetime long before I myself reach retirement age. While I'm busting my butt to pay taxes and put my kids through school, you'll be living in your trailer screaming at the TV paid for with MY Social Security money. You'll probably also still be harrassing other people younger, more educated, and far more intelligent than yourself on the internet. We the collective "youngsters" who are paying for your retirement would be happy to see you smoke those Camel unfiltereds a little faster. A casket is a lot cheaper than feeding and housing you for another 20 years.

You are EXACTLY why there should be a law that old people should be disallowed from using the internet. There's nothing I hate worse than somebody who thinks that age > education. Go ahead and say/think what you want of me and anyone else of my generation not relying on little blue pills to give the ladies in our lives a reason to raise an eyebrow at us. At least "us young'ns" can spell (or know how to use spell-check.) You don't know a damn thing about me, and you think you've got what it takes to trump me in an engine build-off. Whatever. You couldn't out-build me, out think me, and sure as HELL couldn't out fight me, so why don't you just do as the others suggested and stay the hell out of our forum?

Anyway, I don't hide my identity on the internet. If you've got something for me, come on down. In the mean time, why don't you go polish your dentures, de-calcify your false eye, grease the bearings on your wheelchair, or sand and shellac your wooden leg. Better yet, why don't you learn where your local library is, get yourself a library card, and try reading a little about this stuff you're claiming to know something about? Sorry, engineering texts are mostly words and not pictures, so you might have to find somebody who can read and write proper English to help you out.

BTW, I've NEVER owned a video game. How you like them apples?

BK

[Ed Csoltko]

Whoever has the moderator controls, please delete this thread.

[computerworks]

WTF happened here?

This started as an "..I've got some cans of oil for sale" and ended up as a petroleum-laced pissing contest.

The thread is closed. Ed, I hope someone buys your oil.

Now, both you combatants need to back off and take a break.

Opinions are allowed here, in fact that's why this is a "discussion" site. Everyone here has opinions based on hearsay, personal knowledge, research or experience.
However, descending like this into a name-calling brawl, is not allowed.

Originally Posted by jetenginedoctor

You're an idiot.

...etc.

Brian...that kind of talk can get you bounced off this forum.

Vehement disagreement and arguing should go off line...do what you want in PM's or e-mails...
...but keep the dialog above the line here on the forum.

thanks
ron
ClubCobra Moderator

[CSX 4027]

Happy Birthday.
No need for college.
This is elementary.
I have a 55 gallon drum of 500 Mile Used Race Oil.
Should be good to re-use according to popular opinion.
Anyone want to buy for 10 cents per quart? Come get it..

[Byots]

I used to swear by Mobil 1, but have recently seen a 4 year old 40,000 mile Honda Accord driven by a senior citizen experience worn rod bearings and scuffed cylinder walls (using Mobile 1). Also, my Audi has developed what I'm quite sure is piston slap under certain conditions after 50,000 miles, again using Mobil 1. All new oils that were made to work with catalytic converter equipped cars are crap. We didn't experience these types of problems to such a degree with the oil used years ago when I was a kid, even beating the hell out of my cars.

[CSX 4027]

Mobil One has gone thru many reformulations.
According to our testing and by speaking with them, we have concluded that they used to be great but, during the late 90's and early 2000's they were less than great and many swore off, at and against but now, they are back in the good category. I had 75,000 miles on a F150 5.4 that was clean as a whistle on Mobil 1 changed every 3000 and running strong on the modified Lightning motor with 25000 miles changed every 3000.
On a modern motor, as long as you don't go extended intervals, I am not sure any of todays oils will make a difference plus or minus minutia no matter what they claim. Piston slap and other related issues I would be are more a mfg issue than oil.