Power, at the crank I was told 500HP, an equal amount of torque, although where I am in PA (and my 70+hr work week), I have not had the opportunity to run it on a chassis dyno to nail those numbers down. Car runs on super unleaded 92 octane pump gas (that is what the motor was built to run on), suspension has been entirely gone through in the last 6 months, front bushings have been upgraded to polyurethane replacements for a more responsive steering "feel". Car was originally built 22 years ago and sat in storage for several years (which is why I went through it from top to bottom this past winter), have probably put 1,500 miles on it so far this year, less than 10,000 original miles on the car). Suspension is tubular front end, Jag based IRS (Independent Rear Suspension). Paint has a few stone chips, but shines like new (without wax to hide any defects). Reliability, the car was originally built with that in mind, this is my personal car and I am very anal when it comes to vehicles that I drive, be it the Cobra, or my 2K Expedition. If I had the time off, I would not hesitate to drive it cross country. Any other questions, just let me know.

Also, since you are new to this, I suggest you read the "How to buy a used Cobra" post for the FAQ here.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...8&postcount=21

Either way, have fun with your search, as sometimes that is half the fun.

Bill S.

Well that all depends on how much money you got and how fast you wanna go. The sky is the limit. Do your shopping and I mean very thoroughly. Talk to as many manufacturers as your fingers can dial. The horsepower to weight ratio is quite large even with a stock 302. I would also suggest a driving school if you havn't been to one already. This much power on the street can be quite nasty. I plan to do the driving school myself. Good Luck with your homework and eventual purchase. These cars are a blast!

Powersurge has an awesome CSX for sale.

Check out this thread.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/99152-help-me-sell-my-cobra.html

You also need to check out http://www.cobracountry.com/, more used cobras than you can shake a stick at. take your time there are a lot of junk kits cars out there.

Check out Levy Racing for a turnkey FFR roadster or even their limited production coupe. Levy will build it to your specs - including motors. And motorwise - what do you want to do with the car? The HP to weight ratio on these cars means you don't need 500 hp to have fun. My first cobra was one I bought used, an FIA car with a stock 302 HO motor with around 300 HP at the crank, a T5 transmission, and a jag rear with a 3:33 diff gear. With a realitively small cam, this car had a ton of low end torque. At a HP driving school (1.5 mile track 8 curves 3 straights) I could keep up with - or ahead of - whoever I ran with and there were a lot of 400 - 550 hp cars there. Levy builds cars and they also race cars - so it would be a good outfit to talk to. Or, call ERA and have one built - takes time - up to a year depending on --- traffic at the local Italian diner~!!

In his first post George wrote "Don't care if engine is Ford or Chevy, just want tremendous HP...." I don't think an ERA is the right choice for him, either from a cost or time perspective (unless he takes a look at Mr. Mustang's ERA for sale). I really think an FFR is probably the right choice here.

As he looks over his shoulders for lightning to strike. :LOL: ;)

Well, I was holding up a one-iron over my head as I wrote that post...:cool:

Kinda like that priest having the best round of golf in his life during the rainstorm scene in Caddyshack? :eek:

B&B turnkey minus
 

I have a new turnkey minus that will be done next week, all tubular front suspension, 4 wheel disc,9" rear with new Moser axles the car Is dark metalic blue with white stripes black Interior racing belts black roll bar and Black side pipes this is a great car and will be ready in a week, 26,995

Bryan, this is a pretty stupid question, but aside from the engine and trans, what more do you need to put in a turnkey-minus for it to be a fully complete car?

Get a blue one.

Otherwise they're all the same!

I must have a winner.....mine is blue!! :LOL:

Rodger

B&B turnkey minus
 

you will need engine and trans a drive shaft a battery and that is it.

Sounds like a heckuva deal. Thanks.:)

B&B turnkey minus
 

It is a very good deal, please let me Know If I can get you any more info on this car.
thanks
Bryan

Click on my camera icon and take a look at my SPF for sale. Indigo blue, titanium stripes, 418W, 550 hp, georgous. $52k.

Bill
wgmeyer@q.com

john 2456
 

Geo, I have a gorgeous FFR MK3 now for sale on Ebay. Ford blue/silver stripes. Has new 347 Stroker 4/09 with 2000 miles. Built in 2007 all the "bugs" and gremlins fixed. Koni shocks T5 HD tranny. Item 300347219732. John

What? Nobody going to take a shot at the "pecking order"?

Try this list:

1 Original Shelby Cobra (from the sixties...) $$$$$
2 "Real"* Shelby Cobra---aluminum body $$$$
3 Kirkham $$$ (only because it has the aluminum body, and replicates the originals, down to the frame. Kirkham supplies for Shelby)
4 ERA $$
5 Superformance $$ (okay, 4 and 5 are debatable. ERA has a more "correct" body. Though the SPF IS a great-looking car. Besides, I own an ERA...)
.
.
.
From there, it gets blurry. Backdraft, Factory Five, others. It gets tough to call. A lot of the value in the cars is how they are built.

Do your homework, and find the Cobra that fits best for you. I chose ERA because I wanted a very exact replication of the original body shape in fiberglass. Truth be told, I'd prefer an aluminum body, but the project was expensive enough as it was.

So, it kind of depends on how much money you want to spend.

* "Real" meaning a "genuine Shelby Product, newly manufactured replica of the original Shelby product"
-- Fair enough?

I'm No. 3, I'm No. 3, I'm No. 3. Eh, doesn't sound as good as I'm No. 1.