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yea... the 4 post lift is planned when I get the new house built... and that is a long time from now :CRY: there is no room for a 4 post lift in my garage currently.
The two post lift is compelling as I can move it around. My thoughts are to have multiple bolt location in the garage. My only concern is making sure I don't drill through the rebar. With all of the pictures I took of the place being built... this was not one of them :mad: For those in town that had them installed... are they bolted down and how did they know where the rebar is? I know there is atleast one architect on this thread :LOL: Once I am convinced I can solve the rebar problem I can then decide on a lift :D That or I need to start looking for land, near the DFW airport in a good school district to build a nice garage with a house attached. |
i have had some luck with a metal detector for finding the rebar in concrete.
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Chris,
You need to determine if it's a conventional steel reinforced slab, or a post tension slab. Look around the outside of the foundation. If you see 3" circles about every 4'-5', it's post tension. Those are cable strands and you CAN NOT cut or nick. To find them in the floor slab, yes, use a metal detector and stay away from the strands. If no circles, then it's a conventional reinforced system. The steel reinforcing bars (re-bar) are set at 18" on center (typical) both directions. Should be no problem if you cut or nick a couple. But if you're not comfortable either way, use a metal detector. |
Quote:
When I built my house 5 years ago, for the garage floor, my contractor used the rebar sheet mesh. I was thinner than the rebar that he used in the main house foundation. That mesh is used all the time for garage floors. When I drilled the 5 holes for the Maxjax and then I drilled 3 more holes so all I had to do slide one column back 5" to accommodate a larger vehicle for second set up. In one of my 8 holes I actually hit the rebar mesh and it was no big deal for the drill bit to go right through it. You have to go down at least 3.75" for the drop in bolts to be below the concrete, that is what holds the columns in place, the bolts grabbing below the concrete. When you have brittle concrete, the drop in bolts can't bite and hold. Some people used concrete epoxy for added strength, I decided not to because all my bolts grabbed and easy torqued to 100 + LBS. Remember you are using a high impact concrete drill with a concrete bit, going through rebar is pretty easy. Craig |
Chris,
Craig is correct, but I'm willing to bet it's a post tension slab. VERY popular here in north Texas. I can't stand them. Just go to Home Depot and buy a 1/2" hammer drill, a couple of concrete drill bits, and the correct number of anchors. Commercial contractors around here prefer the chemical bolts (epoxy anchors) due to their tinsel strength. But I did the same as Craig, 1/2" expansion bolts. The slab is suppose to be 5" thick in a garage. Be sure not to penetrate all the way through. Just drill the depth of the anchor. There is a moisture membrane below the slab. If you puncture that, you'll have the possibility of water seeping through the hole during the wet season. Welcome to north Texas soils condition. |
so.... chris, you DON'T have room for a 4 post?? is that definitive???
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no room for the 4 post lift... too much wood working stuff and other toys that I move around depending on the project. I just need the new garage... solves most of my problems :rolleyes: Except I have been in this one 7 years and almost have it upgraded to my liking :3DSMILE:
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I have a MaxJax. It's cheap $, installs easily....works great for a small garage. Later....I will pour a small concrete pad beside my garage for using it on my other cars. It works...and is much better than using ramps. When you move....it goes with you. You need to rent a hammer drill to install...which takes about 2-3 hours...alone. mike
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