Lifts in Dallas - MaxJack

Texas-Saluki · #1 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 08:43 AM

All,

I am looking to get a lift... as working under the car on stands...sucks

Since many of you have been at my house have seen I have a well organized 20 lbs in a 10 lb garage I am looking at the portable lift so I can move it to the side of the garage when not in use.

http://www.maxjaxusa.com/

I have a few questions for the group

does anyone have one of these lifts and have any feedback?
since we all have post tension slabs, drilling holes in the floor is more problematic. Does anyone have any leads for someone that can locate the rebar in the floor.

Thanks

Stoney FFR · #2 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 09:43 AM

No experience with this lift, but just a comment that you might want to think about. It looks like the max lift height is about 4 feet. Getting your car 4 feet off of the ground isn't going to be very helpful while working under the car, unless you're a very short person. I think you would be better off just getting or building a set of ramps that get it high enough to slide underneath and work while laying on your back. I've seen plans for a set of wooden ramps posted online that I have considered building.

Joe - -

PARKERPOWER · #3 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 10:45 AM

Ditto on what Joe said, plus the only thing keeping the car from coming down on top of you is those concrete anchors.

Richard

Texas-Saluki · #4 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 10:51 AM

yea but sitting is a lot better than on your back...

Z-linkCobra · #5 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas-Saluki

yea but sitting is a lot better than on your back...

If you have any room outside next to the garage you could pour 4 small pads of concrete and put a 4 post lift outside. I have seen many a 4 post lift outside in a permanent mounting. Put the power on a breaker that you can shut off inside so the kids cant mess with it. Thats what I would take a look at. Might have to ok that with the neighbors and more importantly the wife.

am9648 · #6 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 11:16 AM

Take a look at these ramps. Yes still on you back but no where near the cost of the lift.

www.raceramps.com

model: RR-XT-2

Stoney FFR · #7 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by am9648

Take a look at these ramps. Yes still on you back but no where near the cost of the lift.

www.raceramps.com

model: RR-XT-2

I really like those Portable Pit Stop Ramps............ until I saw the $2500 price tag!

Stoney FFR · #8 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 04:04 PM

Here's the post about the homemade ramps that I remember seeing.. Really nice looking ramps and a great looking Cobra also!

Poor Man's Qwik Lift for $250.00 (look!)

But in a pinch I guess you could go with something like this.

But okay, enough about ramps. Back on topic now. Hopefully someone knows about that MaxJack that Chris is asking about..

Joe - -

Cobra #42 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 05:33 PM

Chris, You need to check out this guy, he is in Arlington, TX. A personal friend and a great guy. Jim Woodard bought a lift from him many years ago and it has never missed a beat. http://www.derekweaver.com/update/index.aspx He always has a lift on display at Good Guys which is coming up at TMS Oct 2-4. High recommended, db

Texas-Saluki · #10 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 07:19 PM

wow... it seems like I was just at goodguys... Don, I will take a look at the lift. I need something that I can put up and take down, maybe these are not that hard to setup as they have to bolt to the floor anyway, the strip on the floor is the electrical between the two.

That or I need to build a new house with a bigger garage

airspeed1 · #11 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 09:05 PM

I bought a lift from a company out of Fort Worth. It is four post free standing lift from a company called Direct Lift. I really like it.

Whoops...just saw the Derek Weaver reference in the previous post. That is who I bought the lift from. They deliver and installed and it works great.

If it helps any, this is what the lift looks like in a garage.

Jerry

gthompson · #12 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 10:52 PM

I have a single post lift that works pretty well for working on the car.
Here is a picture of the lift on the ground and then off of the ground.
The name of the company is American Garage Works. The guys name is Doug 817-219-1455

PCW · #13 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 10:53 PM

Texas,

I have a Maxjax and I love it. My concrete is about 4 1/2 " and had no problems with the drop in anchors holding at 100LBS of torque. It is rated for 6K, but have had only about 5K on the lift so far. I have heard some with old brittle concrete dug it up and re-poured 12" footing. I have 10'8" ceiling in my garage and have been able to lift all my cars to the full 48". Here are some pics, sorry don't have the SPF yet, but when I do, it will look really nice in the air? If you look on the columns you will see small magnetic levels. Before I got under them I wanted to make sure there was no movement between the columns. I set the level with a larger level dead center and not once have the bubble moved out center on the small levels. I also left the car up for hours before I got under it. Not one problem, been very happy with it. It can also be taken apart and stored if you would need to, I have not done that, no need to so far.

Craig

cman46 · #14 (**permalink**) 09-11-2009, 06:44 AM

To me lifts are kind of like what Cobra should I buy? Personally, because of ceiling clearance I have owned and used the Kwik Lift. The outfit is out of Oklahoma and offers many accessories. A floor jack is utilized to raise it. I believe it offers some 37" of clearance when one is on their back. Anyhow, Goodguys is coming up Oct 2-5 and is a great place to view and talk with the various lift vendors. I purchased my first Kwik Lift at Goodguys on a show special and it did not include sales tax. Input only no selling. Colin

SSSammy · #15 (**permalink**) 09-13-2009, 08:37 PM

Chris, I have one of the Derek Weaver jobs, and it is just sitting there, not bolted. It does walk around a few inches over time and it has to be re-positioned using it's dolly wheels.

but they are inexpensive ... about $2K installed.

Sam

Texas-Saluki · #16 (**permalink**) 09-14-2009, 03:51 PM

yea... the 4 post lift is planned when I get the new house built... and that is a long time from now

there is no room for a 4 post lift in my garage currently.

The two post lift is compelling as I can move it around. My thoughts are to have multiple bolt location in the garage.

My only concern is making sure I don't drill through the rebar. With all of the pictures I took of the place being built... this was not one of them

For those in town that had them installed... are they bolted down and how did they know where the rebar is? I know there is atleast one architect on this thread

Once I am convinced I can solve the rebar problem I can then decide on a lift

That or I need to start looking for land, near the DFW airport in a good school district to build a nice garage with a house attached.

whichonetodrive · #17 (**permalink**) 09-14-2009, 04:08 PM

i have had some luck with a metal detector for finding the rebar in concrete.

PCW · #18 (**permalink**) 09-14-2009, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texas-Saluki

yea... the 4 post lift is planned when I get the new house built... and that is a long time from now

there is no room for a 4 post lift in my garage currently.

The two post lift is compelling as I can move it around. My thoughts are to have multiple bolt location in the garage.

My only concern is making sure I don't drill through the rebar. With all of the pictures I took of the place being built... this was not one of them

For those in town that had them installed... are they bolted down and how did they know where the rebar is? I know there is atleast one architect on this thread

Once I am convinced I can solve the rebar problem I can then decide on a lift

That or I need to start looking for land, near the DFW airport in a good school district to build a nice garage with a house attached.

Chris,

When I built my house 5 years ago, for the garage floor, my contractor used the rebar sheet mesh. I was thinner than the rebar that he used in the main house foundation. That mesh is used all the time for garage floors. When I drilled the 5 holes for the Maxjax and then I drilled 3 more holes so all I had to do slide one column back 5" to accommodate a larger vehicle for second set up. In one of my 8 holes I actually hit the rebar mesh and it was no big deal for the drill bit to go right through it. You have to go down at least 3.75" for the drop in bolts to be below the concrete, that is what holds the columns in place, the bolts grabbing below the concrete. When you have brittle concrete, the drop in bolts can't bite and hold. Some people used concrete epoxy for added strength, I decided not to because all my bolts grabbed and easy torqued to 100 + LBS. Remember you are using a high impact concrete drill with a concrete bit, going through rebar is pretty easy.

Craig

LuvDaBlues · #19 (**permalink**) 09-14-2009, 07:50 PM

Chris,

You need to determine if it's a conventional steel reinforced slab, or a post tension slab. Look around the outside of the foundation. If you see 3" circles about every 4'-5', it's post tension. Those are cable strands and you CAN NOT cut or nick. To find them in the floor slab, yes, use a metal detector and stay away from the strands.

If no circles, then it's a conventional reinforced system. The steel reinforcing bars (re-bar) are set at 18" on center (typical) both directions. Should be no problem if you cut or nick a couple. But if you're not comfortable either way, use a metal detector.

LuvDaBlues · #20 (**permalink**) 09-15-2009, 05:37 AM

Chris,

Craig is correct, but I'm willing to bet it's a post tension slab. VERY popular here in north Texas. I can't stand them.

Just go to Home Depot and buy a 1/2" hammer drill, a couple of concrete drill bits, and the correct number of anchors. Commercial contractors around here prefer the chemical bolts (epoxy anchors) due to their tinsel strength. But I did the same as Craig, 1/2" expansion bolts. The slab is suppose to be 5" thick in a garage. Be sure not to penetrate all the way through. Just drill the depth of the anchor. There is a moisture membrane below the slab. If you puncture that, you'll have the possibility of water seeping through the hole during the wet season. Welcome to north Texas soils condition.