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Old 02-27-2010, 02:32 PM
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Thanks for the input everyone. I'm just going to go with some new rear tires and get a small air compressor.

I run 20-22 PSI in the front and 18-20 PSI in the rear. If you look on the Roger Kraus site, they recommend 20 PSI front and rear for racing. And generally racing carries a little more pressure so the side walls do not roll under during cornering.

In regard to DOT approval, bias ply tires can be DOT approved. The reason the Billboard are not is the side wall and tread carcass is very thin since it's a race tire. Less heat build up that way, but they also do not react well to pot holes and other items that we may hit on the highway.

Thanks again everyone.
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Old 02-27-2010, 03:35 PM
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John, are you sure that ALL bias ply tires cannot get DOT approval?
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by PatBuckley View Post
John, are you sure that ALL bias ply tires cannot get DOT approval?
Hello Pat,

Sorry, you misread my post. Bias ply tires can be DOT approved. Someone else posted that they could not, and I was correcting that.
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Old 02-28-2010, 07:40 AM
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I did, sorry.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback51 View Post
Hello Pat,

Sorry, you misread my post. Bias ply tires can be DOT approved.
The only bias ply tires (legally allowed on the street) that won't have a DOT stamp are originals made prior to 1968.

Jim
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:37 AM
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With using such low psi, don't you get uneven tire ware ? (outside tred)
Or is the psi with bias-ply different ?

I would hate to ruin my expensive Billboards, which I haven't mounted yet.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:52 AM
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With using such low psi, don't you get uneven tire ware ? (outside tred)
Or is the psi with bias-ply different ?

I would hate to ruin my expensive Billboards, which I haven't mounted yet.
You have to remember that each tire is only carrying approximately 700 pounds over a fairly large foot print.

I did a couple quick burnouts in the garage to make sure I had a good footprint and that is where the 18 PSI came from.

Just noticed I forgot to mention one item. The recommended pressures on Rogers site are 20 PSI cold. If hot, they are 27 PSI.
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Old 03-01-2010, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback51 View Post
You have to remember that each tire is only carrying approximately 700 pounds over a fairly large foot print.

I did a couple quick burnouts in the garage to make sure I had a good footprint and that is where the 18 PSI came from.

Just noticed I forgot to mention one item. The recommended pressures on Rogers site are 20 PSI cold. If hot, they are 27 PSI.
Here's the Krause info on tire pressures for "Vintage Tires". I'll also include their advice on tire "direction"...
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback51 View Post

In regard to DOT approval, bias ply tires can be DOT approved. The reason the Billboard are not is the side wall and tread carcass is very thin since it's a race tire. Less heat build up that way, but they also do not react well to pot holes and other items that we may hit on the highway.

Thanks again everyone.
Right you are John. All tires destined for street use have a DOT number on them. That includes ALL reproduction bias ply tires etc. It has nothing to do with bias ply vs. radial.

The only problem running non DOT tires is that if you have an accident and injure someone while running them, an attorney would have a field day and easily prove negligence on your part.

Jim
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Old 02-27-2010, 05:24 PM
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I haven't gone more than 150 miles/clip and don't have the GY BB either. However, I HAVE gotten a flat in one of the GY radials (old supercar size which is n/a)on my way to my "summer" home 75 miles out. I had 2 cans of Fix-a flat, which got me enough pressure to get to a gas station and fill up. The problem was the valve stem where it mounts to the rim. The gooey stuff seemed to fix it so I got to where I was going, hung out for the day, then decided to head back after checking that the tire pressure had held up. Well, 15 miles out, it went flat again. No more Fix-a flat cans. I decided to slowly drive back where I had a set of GY G7 hand-cut racing tires (from Roger Kraus). I had to change all 4 wheels/tires. The flat tire was shot and I can't find a replacement anymore. I had to spring for a full set of Nitto 555s. I run 17s. I now carry a full front wheel spare 15", a lead hammer, a tire repair kit including a small air compressor. 4 cans of Fix a flat. That doesn't leave much room for anything else in the trunk after also storing the top and windows there. Your problem would be where to put luggage. I, myself, am pondering a long trip this spring and trying to figure out if a trunk lid luggage rack with straps and suction cups is something worth looking into. Also, I'm putting together a list of spares and tools that would likely be needed in the event of a mechanical problem. Sorry for a long-winded reply but I think performance may be the least of your concerns; more like being prepared for the unexpected mechanical breakdown or a simple flat? Enjoy and tell us how it went...
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