Toploader shifting issues
 

Marc came over with his 289FIA (ERA) just now and I took it for a spin, it appears that he is having issues with his 2nd to 3rd upshift. I can go 1st to 3rd without an issue, but I have to hunt and peck for the 3rd to 2nd downshift, and the 2nd to 3rd upshift. All else works as it should. Alignment pin has already been set, and sitting in my driveway I can shift as normal in all gears, under normal load I'm back to hunting and pecking in the 2 to 3 and 3 to 2 stroke of the shifter. I thought it might have been the shifter hitting the top of the tunnel opening (it's close but not to the point of causing this problem), but that would not explain the 3 to 2 downshift. Anyone else have any issues with their toploader like this? If so, what were your solutions? I'd love his company tomorrow on my 33rd annual New years Day run, but do not want him to lock up the transmission and have to get towed home. Guess we'll await some responses (I know tough on new years eve) and go from there.

Thanks in advance,

Sincerely,

Bill S.

Bill, you might try the Ford Transmission Forum Ford Transmission Forum if you don't get authoritative answers here.

Is this a fresh rebuild or a trans that had been working fine up until this point?

What does it feel like when you can't get it into gear? Does it grind or feel like you're hitting a wall?

The transmission has about 1200 - 1500 miles on a rebuild. About 8 months ago the transmission got locked out of gears. I re-aligned the shifter plates on the shifter using a .250 dowel pin per the manual. Without the car moving you can shift smoothly to all gears. With the car running, under load it seems to get get caught going from 2nd to 3rd. It does not grind, just like hitting a wall.

Hey Marc, Is this a new problem? Or has this been going on for a while?

Where and when is the cruise tomorrow? I'm ready to go.

later, Karl

Karl,

Only one year did I put a cruise in to paper, nobody showed up and instead I drove 58 miles down to pick up John McMahon in the 4 degree temps as he was the only brave one to volunteer (he did not think I would show :D )....I'm playing it by ear, but I figure some time before noon, whenever I wake up and feel like it. Maybe I'll see you out there .

Have a happy new year,

Bill S.

Sounds like bad blocking rings. You might try 'burnishing' them a little. with the car sitting still, engine running, clutch out(engaged) push against the gears that are giving you trouble. What you describe sounds like bad blocking rings but it could be a little gunk build up on them too. Of course do it in a safe spot in case it dumps into gear.

Karl, it happened at the beginning of the summer. Thought I had it fixed with the alignment of the shifter plates. Not so.

I am up for a car ride for the new year.

I have not tried the "blocking ring". Perhaps I will give it a whorl tomorrow as well.

Happy New Year!

Marc-Alan

The manual Trans in my daily driver (Contour SVT) does this often when attempting to shift from neutral to reverse. In my case it is because the clutch is not fully disengaging (last small amount), the auto adjust is out all the way. With the engine OFF it shifts in and out of reverse easily. Could this be the case here?? Maybe it (the clutch) needs to release a small amout further.

Couple of thoughts
 

mrmustang Bill I would start with putting the car in the air and checking linkage from under it. Make sure the linkage is clearing the tunnel. Look for marks on the tunnel for possible rubs or hitting.
Motor mounts and this is a biggie, take the hood off the car and go for a spin through the gears, How much movement is there of the motor going up and down the trans gears? In the old days you needs either a chain with a turn buckle or a torque strap to the block and frame to stop twist. The clutch linkage would bind and cause shifting problems. I am going with the fact the clutch is alright. But if the linkage is binding---. My fork on my car was hitting the tunnel under load. I have modified it to clear. ERA just came out with a new fork for the clearance and the correct length and angle for their cars. They have one for GM input shafts. Less movement of the TOB on the shaft and stays centered better.
I don't think it is blocking rings or 2 bent shift forks. The shift goes from 1 fork to the other main fork. It is possible that the pellet in the internal of the trans may not let the fork return to a neutral postion and is stopping the shift to protect you from putting the trans in 2 gears. I would change fluids to a lite one and retest problem.
The last thing is to change fluids to lite one. Used to be heavier weights was better and now ATF is the in thing.
I am thinking motor twist from weak motor mount of rubber. On the FE motors I have, had to bolt the 2 halfs togeather or get the same problem the motor jumping out of the car. The rubber mounts stop vibrations of the car, solid mount will stop all movement. If you go with straps or chain to the motor in most cases you will end up with the top going into the head. I would use a stud of grade 5 or 8 for the upper mount. If you can't find something than go get a long bolt and thread it and cut to fit. Washers and nyloc nuts too. I know it's a pain but put the strap or chain behind the motor at the bell housing. If you mount the chain in the front of the head, the motor will twist at an angle and wear out the mounts if rubber and bind the linkage.Saw a throttle linkage do that one day and wasted a $35,000 cammer motor. The guy had no limiter in the MSD to protect the motor, 8,900 rpm and bang.
Good Luck Bill, Happy New year. Rick L.

Rick,

Appreciate the post....It is http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/imag...ine=1234397732 marcalan's car that the issues are happening to, we'll see how his car behaves if he comes out for my 33rd annual New years Day run this afternoon.

Bill S.

Rick,
I don't think you read his original symptoms thoroughly. Torque wouldn't be an issue when the trans is in neutral hunting for a gear downshifting. Besides the blocking rings, I wonder about a slipping shift rail.

If it's a Hurst, readjust the jam nuts on the stop bolts. The shifter's not fully engaging 3rd because the rear stop is too close.
It's a simple check-without major trans r & r.

Try Mike Miles, he seems to know the Ford transmissions.......

BTW: Don't use synthetic oils in the toploader........... Kiss of death!

Just came back from the new years day ride, a little update. As Bill said, 1 - 3 shift no problem. Going from 2 - 3 would hit a wall, not all the time, just sometimes. Tried revving the motor as it happened, nothing. Tried shifting from 2 - 3 when I hit the wall by waiting a moment to de-torque the drive train, didn't work consistently. Had it going for a while where there was not problem shifting between the gears.

There is lube between the shifter plates. I took apart the shifter over the summer to make sure all was good. Also pulled off the top plate from the transmission and ran it through the gear so see what was going on and to make sure that there was fluid in the transmission case. At the time, I had jacked up the rear wheels so I could confirm I was in gear by spinning the tires.

So does this mean you have a Hurst?? Are you sure the stop bolts were correct??

No I have the stock for linkage. The shifter plates I referring to are the one in the shifter box.

Jac Mac thanks for the information. Should I start with the 1 -2 or the 3 - 4 or is this something that I have to adjust both at the same time?