Rear main vs tranny input seal leak

[RICK LAKE]

Texas DOC Tom what color is the oil in the bell housing?? Brown or Red. I believe that T series trannies all take ATF fluid which is red. If the fluid is brown, It could be burnt ATF,or motor oil . I look at a 3 second video and the oil looks brown, yes, no ???? Is the oil thick like motor oil of thin like ATF? Rick L.
Ps I have seen motors leak oil from the front of the motor to the back along the oil pan. and without the dye you would have figured that the rear main was the problem. Same applies for the plugs in the back of th motor block for the oil passages. No sealer and some plugs leak. Spray is everywhere but on the flywheel and clutch. There is a lot of air blowing around inside that bellhousing. Enough to suck in HTOBearing lines and rub them through on the pressure plate.

[Texasdoc]

The back of the motor has plugs. I first bought some from Summit. The machinist recommended I not install those as they were too short. He recommended some longer/taller plugs that were supposed to seal better due to more contact area with the block. They were installed by the machine shop. I can see the sealant. The machine shop fluxed the block and said there were no cracks. I think what I'm seeing around the plugs is just spray from the turbulence inside the bell housing. I'll check again the front/back of the intake, valve covers, etc. I've looked before, but haven't seen anything. I don't want to tear into the oil pan/RMS again if I don't have to.

The oil is a brownish color. BUT, I had Valvoline MTF synchromesh in there which is brown. I don't remember who told me to put that in there, but that's what it was. So that doesn't help. If I had ATF in there, I would know if it was the transmission (red) or motor (brown) that was leaking.

Anyway, I will put ATF in the new TKO600 after install. I will put dye in the motor oil. The break in procedure for the TKO is to put ATF in for the break in period (15 minutes, rowing thru the gears), drive 500 miles, then drain and put in GM Synchromesh.

I found this here on ClubCobra:

Put 3qt of good quality ATF (Auto Transmission Fluid) (Dexron) into the transmission. Pour in through shifter mount, or through one of the top plates. You can use the fill plug on the side of the transmission also (afterall, that's what it's for!). It's just easier to pour it in from the top if you can.
Put car on jacks, run the transmission up and down through all gears repeatedly for 15 minutes. This will allow the gears to break in properly (yes, with the engine running) After 500-700 miles, drain the ATF, and put in 3qt of the GM Synchromesh fluid, the part number is 12345349.

Does anyone recommend a different procedure/fluid? I'm going to center the quicktime bell housing with a dial gauge, install the tranny, run the break in procedure for 15 minutes, then shut it down and look for leaks. If it leaks red, new tranny is leaking. If it leaks brown/dye, time for another new RMS. I'll then drive it for 500 miles and switch to GM Synchromesh. Also considering a MGW shifter. I had one on the T5 and loved it. Anyone have one on a TKO?

Thanks for everyone's help! I wanted to spend the day on the track at TCC again this year (my favorite thing to do all year in the cobra) but that ain't happening... I'm just going to take my time and do it right. I'll just be a passenger at TCC this year.

[RICK LAKE]

Texasdoc Tom Call Tremac and ask thm or the guys who sell trannies here for the correct way to breakin and maintain the trans. You don't want to VOID the warrantty if there is a machining problem. Fill the trans any way you like as long as you don't over fill it and cause leaks from the front or rear seals.
Find it hard to believe that with all the GREAT people in TEXAS someone wouldn't give you a hand with assembling the car. A couple of evenings, beer and a couple of steaks, they will be banging on the door.
Have been told that Quicktime belhousings are very centered on the back of motors ad require little to no adjustment of the pins to center.
Here a side note, over the years of building motors have found that some crankshafts have no grooves where the RMS is and some do. Doesn't matter if the motor calls for a rope seal or plastic one. I tryed a couple of times to sealup the rearmain seal area on the shelby block. After 10-20 heat cycles the leak returned. It's small, just a couple of drops. It has not kept me off the track or failed inspection. The motor being an aluminum block has a larger exspansion ratio than cast iron. The oil have no effected my twin disc clutch setup. I do run 1 quart of oil more than called for and this didn't change the leaking issue. Ran 7 to start and leaked, then ran 8 and still does the same.
Put the car back togeather, break in the trans and go drive or trailer it to the track and enjoy it Passenger is just not the same thing. Even bring the car and not track it and cruise for chicks?? I'm sure you are married with children, or girlfriend. Just a thought. Rick L.