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Shifter Swap in progress...need assistance
Swapping in a 5.0 pro shifter on my 3550/TKO. Read here in a prior thread that I could remove the old shifter from the tranny (without removing the trans tunnel) by doing the following: Remove the four bolts from the top, pull the shifter mechanism out from the top then the six bolts from the main body to the tranny out, drop it down to the side.
I removed the 4 top bolts (they also secure the lower dust boot), but how does the shifter rod and ball come out on the factory shifter? There appear to be two lever stop bolts north and south...do these secure the rod/ball to the shifter housing in any way? Also, the 5.0 Shifter is a two piece design and I'm familiar with taking it apart so that I can install without removing the trans tunnel. But it appears the factory shifter is a one piece design, i.e. the shifter housing and the base plate appear to be one piece (as I view it from the top). Any feedback on this one would be greatly appreciated, thanks! -Deano P.S. A couple helpful tools to pull this off: 1. 1/2" swivel socket - using a 1/2" socket with a separate swivel attachment is too long. 2. 1/4" hex (Allen wrench) socket - 3/8" or 1/2" drive. You will need this and some leverage to break free the top 4 bolts on the 5.0 Pro Shifter. I was bending a regular Allen wrench last night just trying to loosen those boogers! |
Red,
I did this a couple of months ago and it's pretty straight forward. If I recall correctly the first four bolts only hold the dust cover. The bolts north and south have to loosened until the shifter pulls out. They hold the shift pivot platform solid to the case. It will be obvious once you remove the shifter. It's an easy switch. Let me know if you have any more questions. Jack Z. |
"The bolts north and south have to be loosened until the shifter pulls out. They hold the shift pivot platform solid to the case."
Jack, a big THANK YOU!! I was figuring that those two bolts had to hold shifter in there somewhere, but I didn't want to get to a point of no return whereby I had to start buttoning everything back together and retreat. Did you change your tranny fluid at the same time? I'm thinking of picking up some Synchomesh from the local GM dealer and after draining, just refilling the tranny right from the top. -Deano |
Red,
No I didn't change the fluid. Maybe I should have since it's been in there for a year and I read you should change it the first year. I do have GM syncromesh in now which is what Tremec recommended. Some SPF guys have used some new stuff from Performance Unlimited and they report smoother shifting. I have just stayed with the GM Syncromesh. This tranny is not the smoothest shifting thing for sure but the Pro 5.0 helps a lot. Jack Z. |
I am considering making the change to the Pro 5.0 shifter, as well. Does the "stock toploader" shift lever bolt directly to the 5.0 shifter?
Does the installation require anything other than just replacing the shifter mechanism and bolting the old lever to it? Thanks in advance for your help... |
J.P.
I've changed to the Jordan shifter and I've actually had to take a drill bit to the top bolt hole and elongate it ever so slightly to make the Jordan fit (it was off maybe a millimeter at the most). I was careful and took my time (several passes and refits) so that I maintained a snug final fit. Some lock-tite on the two bolts and it won't go anywhere. I have not aligned the stock shifter yet (it's hanging on my pegboard). Maybe later tonight I'll check into it for you and determine if that too needs a little massaging to fit. -Deano |
Quote:
Just in case you're wondering, I changed the tranny fluid, using GM Synchromesh, after I got the car in 2002. So, it's not the original fluid from day 1. It may be a good idea to put some fresh fluid in there though. So how's she shifting now? David |
David,
Thanks for the information. And great to hear from you! How's the little one doing? Are you building another beast? Was reading an FE thread and you posted some dyno shots. :) The shifting on this car has always felt notchy from day one. That's why I'm replacing the mechanism with the Pro 5.0 unit. I'm expecting significant improvement, especially with the 2-3 shift (which gave me the most trouble). I switched over to the Jordan shifter and that was a HUGE improvement (considering my long arms and all). Great to hear from you....keep us posted on whatever progress you are making with the new car. Regards, -Dean |
what are some websites for the Pro 5.0 shifter and the Jordan shifter???
Thanks! |
Jordan Shifter
http://www.secondstrike.com/SecondStrikeStore/JordanShifter.htm 5.0 Pro Shifter http://performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley/pro50shifter.html |
*** UPDATE ***
Completed the shifter installation earlier today. Still have the car up on jack stands (other maintenance to complete), but just throwing the shifter through the gears was incredible. I may never miss the 2-3 shift again with this shifter! The install was really straight forward. I have to head out of town on business tomorrow (Sunday), but when I get back I may write a detailed procedure for future users (especially SPF owners). Having the right tools was the key, otherwise it was a pretty simple install (depsite the fact that you're working through a 5 inch hole!). -Deano |
Dean,
Good show! Two days of driving and you won't know it's in there but I think it's a great improvement over the stock shifter. Jack Z. |
I HAVE A TKO WITH REDLINE FLUID. HARD AND ROUGH SHIFTS FOR 7500 MILES. I PUT PERFORMANCE ADDITIVE IN A COUPLE A DAYS AGO AND HAVE DRIVEN THE COBRA 100 + MILES. SHIFTS 500 % BETTER.
http://performanceunlimited.com/cobravalley/ BEST $25 I'VE SPEND IN A LONG TIME!!!!!! |
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