These are pictures of the phenolic spacer under the carbs, which definitely help in preventing them getting hot while driving. I have also made myself phenolic spacers for under the screwhead to prevent heat from beeing transmitted through there . The screws are stainless steel, which transmit heat mores slowly. This is a partial solution to the problem.
I also made myself a heatshiel, which is aluminum plate with heatshield material stuck on the outer surface. The heatshield does also wrap at the bottom below the fuel bowl. This heatshield has been of no help whatsoever.
My jetting is 40mm chokes, 145 mains,F14, 100 air corrector, 65 idle with 100 idel holder, 00 bypass for pump.
When I come back from a ride the carbs are cool to the touch. They get a lot of cooling from the air comming into the scoop.
Once the car stands still all the heat from the engine goes up the engine bay and slowly goes out through the scoop, but not fast enough, which makes the Webers pick up all that heat and get really hot depending on the outside temperature.
I tried the smallest bypass 0.35 for the pump circuit but still got the nasty dripping. I will put them back in because I made so many changes that I do not remember if I had the phenolic spacers on when I tried using the 0.35 bypass.
My plugs are light tan and the car runs great. Of course forget about 14.7 A/F ratio. If I get anywhere close to that I notice less power and the plugs get too light a color. So this engine need more fuel to run well.
The best thing is to read the plugs.
Run the car at around 4000 rpm for 10 minutes, then without letting bthe rps drop simultaneously turn off the ignition and press the clutch to release the gear to permit the engine to stop rotating. Now stop the car and take out the plugs. That color will tell you where you are.
Threaded Mode
