Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashburn
Bob,
I would also check your outer tie rods since you are reporting that steering is still stiff. For reference what is your Chassis number?
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Just some background info-
I removed the outer tie rod ends from the spindles when troubleshooting with the original rack installed, and the steering stiffness was maybe 80+% in the rack itself.
Of course, I also removed the tie rod ends from the spindles and swapped the inner tie rods onto the "new" rack with the racks off the car (it just seemed easier). The spindles turn easily in their ball joints, and can be rotated easily with one finger pressing on the steering arms, so the friction is not there.
I backed off on the rack friction adjustment (the spring loaded plunger that presses the rack against the pinion gear) on the "old" unit until the rack was sloppy, and the resistance didn't change (the rack seemed to be sticking in the passenger-side bushing). I did not try this with the replacement rack provided by BDR.
The replacement rack was hardly friction-free, of course. With the rack OFF the car, I clamped the splined steering shaft in a pair of 10" Vise-Grips (cardboard wrapped to protect the spines, of course), and I'd say it took probably 5 pounds force applied at the end of the pliers to rotate it, but when it moved, it moved smoothly, whereas with the one I took out, it took probably 10 pounds force to move it, at which point as the friction was broken, it would jump easily 15 degrees or so.
Now, with the wheels hanging in the air, I'd say the friction in the rack is perhaps only 50% of the total drag, and it's smoother. I don't have a fishing scale, or I would hook it on the steering wheel spoke at the wheel rim and give a measurement of the pounds-force required to turn the wheel.
If I could find my 1/4" torque wrench, I could also attach it to the steering wheel retaining nut and give a inch-pound reading for the force to turn the wheel (I think I will look for it!) to compare it with other cars. If my "wag" of 5 pounds force above was correct, however, that would equate to 4 ft-pounds (or 48 in-pounds) to turn the shaft with the rack out of the car given that my Vise Grips are 10" long, rather than 1 foot.
I
CAN say, my car's sister-car (sister-car because it's the same specs and color, not because they were sequential chassis numbers, in fact it was built a year earlier than my car) that I drove in WA State 3 years ago, and again this July has very light steering, and returns to center via caster very well. It had only 500mi on it when I first drove it 3 years ago, and now has 5000mi. I have not driven my car after the new rack, but when I test drove it w/ the "old" rack in it, the wheel had to be turned back to center forcefully. It would stay wherever it was put, actually.
My Chassis number is 661, BTW, and was delivered to my dealer in May of 2008.
My present plan is to go ahead with inspection and licensing process, and see if some miles will loosen everything up a bit. Having never driven one of these cars with "zero-miles" on it, I am not sure just how "free" the steering should feel. Any input on that would be welcome, BTW.
Bob
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