My number is coming up at ERA, options / order advice?

[DanEC]

Some misinformation here. If you order the car un-bonded, it still comes assembled body to frame with all metal panels loosely screwed in place ( such as screws in corners etc). There are metal clips positioning the body on the frame. There is no reason to remove the body from the frame unless you just want to, to completely undercoat it or something. The assembly clips are your alignment jigs for returning the body to correct alignment when bonding. There's no reason for additional garage space - my body never left the frame during my build. I pre-drilled the rivet holes at the boding points, removed the screws securing the body to the positioning clips, raised the body slightly with wooden shims, injected the epoxy into all the bonding spaces, pulled the shims and lowered the body back down (like about 1/4 inch), secured the clips which puts the body in perfect position and then installed the additional rivets per ERA's instructions. I bonded and riveted the rockers as a second operation. I'm telling you it's so dead simple that anyone who can't handle it needs to buy a completely assembled car. And if that is what you prefer to do then there's nothing wrong with that.

Go to the first page of my photo album link below and you will see exactly how it's shipped in-bonded. There are also pictures of my bonding the body.

[1985 CCX]

Here is my two cents

Bond body at ERA
Outboard rear end
6 pin hubs
Best brakes you can afford

Best seats in the business, treat as such....

[Bearwolf]

So it sounds like anyone on here who has bonded a body says it's no sweat. Being the type of guy I am, who really prefers to touch every single nut and bolt with my own hands, I think I'll bond it myself. I know ERA are pros and resale and what not, but building cars is half the enjoyment for me.

What about the 6 pin hubs? By that I mean, more than one person said it'll be cheaper to do them with the car. Is this still the case if I'm building the rear suspension myself? If I order the 6 pin stuff when I get around to building the suspension will it actually be more expensive or are they just saying its cheaper to build it with 6 pins than to build it with 5x4.75 lugs and then convert?

You guys really have me considering dropping the street seats and going with the FIA seats. I might have to fly out to ERA and see if they'll let me sit in both.

[patrickt]

If you "convert" to six pin hubs at a later date, you will be buying new wheels as well. Mucho expensive.

[patrickt]

... along with the hubs, hats, caps, bearings, seals and maybe even the rotors. Bob will throw in the cotter pins. If I "ballparked" it for you I would say that little upgrade down the road is in the neighborhood of five grand, give or take.

[patrickt]

No hats and rotors with the inboard brakes, so that will shave a couple of hundred....