Dashboard leather

rsk289 · #1 (**permalink**) 08-08-2018, 12:40 PM

On the subject of trim leather, I've just fitted this in place of the Audi-style leather I had used originally. It's from UK Hide, worked out at around £200 for a full hide. It comes at 1.2mm thick (0.047"), which is pretty much what's required from Dan's figures on thickness. It's pretty soft so nice to work with but holds the grain and texture well. It's not quite glossy enough, but comes up quite nicely with good ol' boot polish!

xb-60 · #2 (**permalink**) 08-08-2018, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsk289

On the subject of trim leather, I've just fitted this in place of the Audi-style leather I had used originally. It's from UK Hide, worked out at around £200 for a full hide. It comes at 1.2mm thick (0.047"), which is pretty much what's required from Dan's figures on thickness. It's pretty soft so nice to work with but holds the grain and texture well. It's not quite glossy enough, but comes up quite nicely with good ol' boot polish!

Very nice leather! Your grain/texture and thickness looks similar to mine.
Nice/correct Smiths gauges as well.

Cheers,
Glen

xb-60 · #3 (**permalink**) 08-12-2018, 11:36 PM

Roger,

You mentioned in another thread from around four years ago...

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsk289

....I think it's just the dash bottom compound curvature that is the problem area, and some on the ACOC have suggested steam whilst glueing it down. I have spare scraps so will practice a couple of techniques first....

Did you have any trouble with that radius on the lower edge of the dash (in the area around the dropped-centre?) as mentioned above?
Also, the radius into my glovebox opening is quite severe; any suggestions as to how to handle this area? I'm assuming that the most likely solution here is pie-cutting?

Cheers,
Glen

rsk289 · #4 (**permalink**) 08-13-2018, 01:46 AM

Hi Glen,

The leather I'm using this time, in full thickness as supplied (i.e. 0.040-0.050") stretched sufficiently to fit around the centre 'drop-down' area with little difficulty. The 'grain' is a little stretched in this area but this mirrors original cars, from photos I have seen.
The glovebox returns were a different matter. The larger radius end was not too bad, but took a fair bit of pulling and stretching to get close. I took my time and gradually it moved in the right direction. I use a professional contact adhesive which is extremely strong and once the leather could reach where it needed to be the adhesive held it there OK.
The smaller radius end was really tricky. I tried steam, and a hot air gun (having checked on scrap first!), but in truth this made little difference and in the end it was just down to careful stretching. I ended up using Mole Grips (Vise Grips in the US?? Not sure), pulling the leather up tight by closing the jaws until they locked. 4 pairs of these pulled it up where I needed it, but I was fully expecting the leather to tear. It's tough stuff - it didn't, and looks fine around that end too now.
You can't pie-cut the bit that needs it, because this is the visible area on the glove box hole return. You can do the ends that are unseen for obvious reasons.
I'm assuming the originals were done in a similar way. If you're used to working with leather (I'm getting there, but would never count myself an expert) I suspect this is a lot easier.
I'll post photos when it's all done and dusted.

jon@harrison.ne · #5 (**permalink**) 09-13-2018, 01:12 PM

The glovebox leather has a very thin horsehair padding under it, so it is only glued to the back.

rsk289 · #6 (**permalink**) 09-13-2018, 05:13 PM

It's actually a cotton wadding, not horsehair. Woolies sell this.