Synthetic gear lube

[Naumoff]

Has anyone run synthetic gear lube in their trans and rear?

What are your thoughts on it?

Thanks,
Tony

[SantaFe66]

I run Amsoil 75W90 Gear Oil in my Richmond Transmission and my locker diff.

It shifts much better and lasts longer than petroleum lubes. Not to mention excellent cold weather performance should you enjoy that kind of fun in your open cockpit hot-rod.

Here's the Amsoil info on the Gear Oil, you may not need the slip stuff if you have a locker rear. It's primarily for limited-slip diffs.

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx
https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ada.aspx

[relaxinrob]

Tony,
I only run Amsoil products in my engine, trans, and rear. I have heard horror stories of bearings going out in the trans and rear and I experienced it second-hand with Captain Crunch's rear asle bearings going out after only 1 year with some other brand of synthetic lube. Amsoil is the only one I will rely on.

[Naumoff]

Thanks for the info.
I do have a locker rear. The body is off and it would be alot easier to change the gear oil at this time.
I will check out the Amsoil site.
Relaxinrob,
I read about that on the CACC site. Sounds like a good story now that it is over, but I bet he was sick until he got it back together.

Tony

[SCOBRAC]

My Salisbury (dana 44) hated Mobile 1... It made clutch noise as soon as I changed it. I went back to Valvoline 80/90 hyploid.

[rdorman]

Run Red line MT90 in your toploader and Moroso Climbing Gear Oil in the rear with two tubes of GM limited slip additive, all available from Jegs. You will like it!
Rick

[pmfranke]

how much will my ford 9" narrowed rear end hold?

[The Dreamer]

Hey Tony,

Just another data point, but the Kirkham flat out told me not to use synthetic oil in the diff. I have their alum diff, but the internals are Dana44 and they suggested 90W with modifier.

I use a TKO600 and they use auto trans fluid. It is synthetic, but not applicable to the Top Loader.

BTW the Grease Up is calling you.

[Bob In Ct]

I'm using Redline MTL in my Tremec with good results. I would recommend it. Be careful with what you put into the differential. I would use what the manufacturer recommends.

Bob

[Tim Brewer]

David Kee recomends NOT using synthetic in a Toploader.I always run a synthetic in everything else, I use Royal Purple. A 9" Ford rear end uses about a quart, but it doesn't really mater, after you pump it out you pump the new fluid back in until it starts comming back out of the hole.
Tim

[rdorman]

Originally Posted by Tim Brewer

David Kee recomends NOT using synthetic in a Toploader.I always run a synthetic in everything else, I use Royal Purple. A 9" Ford rear end uses about a quart, but it doesn't really mater, after you pump it out you pump the new fluid back in until it starts comming back out of the hole.
Tim

I spoke with David about that and what he said is it has worked well for some and not for others. So, can't recommend it. My toploader likes the MT90. Shifts are smoother.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by rdorman

I spoke with David about that and what he said is it has worked well for some and not for others. So, can't recommend it. My toploader likes the MT90. Shifts are smoother.

I am going to do a fluid change in my Jar rear soon, I am going with the Moroso climbing oil and 8 ozs of Amalie additive, what do you think?
Do you fill it until it runs out of the hole, is this the proper FULL level?
As far as my 4 speed Toploader Tranny goes, I want to do that to. What is the capacity and is this MT 90 a synthetic?
I know I was told NO synthetic in the rear, but what about the tranny?
Thanks...Dave

[rdorman]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

I am going to do a fluid change in my Jar rear soon, I am going with the Moroso climbing oil and 8 ozs of Amalie additive, what do you think?
Do you fill it until it runs out of the hole, is this the proper FULL level?
As far as my 4 speed Toploader Tranny goes, I want to do that to. What is the capacity and is this MT 90 a synthetic?
I know I was told NO synthetic in the rear, but what about the tranny?
Thanks...Dave

That is the combo I use. Fill it until it runs out. Add the additive first.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by rdorman

That is the combo I use. Fill it until it runs out. Add the additive first.

Do you use the Amalie in the rear too?
How much fluid does the 4 speed toploader hold, is that MT 90 a synthetic? I would like to stick with what is in the tranny, but I have no idea what type of fluid is in there presently. What does "MT" stand for?

[trularin]

Craig told me he uses something called, "slick shift". I have not been able to find it.

Anyone know where? It was an auction item at LAST YEARS London event ( not 2008 ).

[ERA Chas]

"Manual Transmission". I use the same in Toploader as Dorman and it has worked well for 12+ years. The Salisbury uses V'voline 80-90 conventional oil with 4 oz Amalie or GM friction modifier. No wear over same time.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

"Manual Transmission". I use the same in Toploader as Dorman and it has worked well for 12+ years. The Salisbury uses V'voline 80-90 conventional oil with 4 oz Amalie or GM friction modifier. No wear over same time.

Ever try a little of the limited slip additive in the ol' Toploader?

[davids2toys]

Just got off the phone with Redline, and they recomend their 75-90 NS product, (pt# 58304)with NO friction modifier added.They said the MT 90 is GL-4 and the 75-90 NS is GL-5. He said our toploader calls for GL-5 and would not recommend MT-90.
As far as the rear goes, he said 75-90w (pt# 7904), this is also GL-5 but has friction modifier added.
I personally am not going to use the rear end product because I was told to stay away from synthetics in the rear, i don't know why, but it kind of stuck in my head!!!
As far as the tranny goes, I am undecided what to do, conventional or synthetic.
If I go with conventional, what weight and what brand would be good?
If I go with the redline, what are your guys thoughts on the recommendations from Redline today?

[Ant]

Heat kills, so the problem with transmissions and rear ends is check the temp and if it needs coolling, you can use synthetic lube for some additional heat capabilities if recommended, or fit a cooler!!

I run an 8.8 IRS with Eaton posi with carbon clutches, Eaton recommend 80/90w mineral oil with the Ford/GM additive "NOT SYNTHETIC" the same thing would apply for the Ford LSD, Jaguar Thornton power lock and original type Cobra diff. I wouldnt take any notice of reps from oil suppliers saying their synthetic product can be used especially in LSD units, they mostly dont know, and I see guys here get their hotrod Cobra's up and running the first thing they do is put some Redline etc fully synthetic in the LSD..............!!!!!!

Toploaders, the race guys here have used ATF fluid for racing to make easier shifting (my road car still has ATF for 440,000K's) and no problems. With my Jerico they recommend any good quality synthetic 75/90w oil, but it hasnt got syncromesh which maybe affected by synthetic.

Synthetic isnt good for every application, some engine builders dont like full synthetics, and often recommend semi-syn or mineral oil. I used to think because more money is spent on synthetic lube I would leave it in my vehicle longer, to get my moneys worth, but it is probably better to be changed more often to get rid of any contaminants in the oil.

[SantaFe66]

I used to work on the North Slope at Prudhoe Bay. Got down to -60F in winter. We would receive new pickups in the fall and ALL lubes were changed to synthetic before they were given to us. If the wheel bearings or rear diff were not changed to synthetic, the wheels would not move after sitting all night in low temps. They even used synthetic Auto Trans fluid.

These were a mix of Fords and Chev's and if it wasn't advisable to use synthetics, I believe they would have found out quickly.

I don't know where these tales come from, but I trust my experience, not unsubstantiated tales.

Our Cobra's sometimes have fancy transmissions or rear diff's that may change that. The best advise should come from the manufacturer.

Of course, you should always break a new engine in with dino oil, valvoline racing is what I use. After a couple thousand miles I go with synthetic and Amsoil is all I use.