Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins
We do the bronze bushings sometimes when the lifters are really tall. Under high lift with high spring pressure, the lifters will want to "wiggle". One, it's easier to R&R a bronze bushing. Once cast iron is oblonged, then the only choice is to....well....put a bronze bushing in it. Another reason is that we can leave the bushing sticking up out of the lifter bore some, so that gives added stability at full lift.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PLDRIVE
Bob I agree with Brent, but i would add that it does reduce friction (dissimilar metals) and it gives u an opportunity to verify and correct bore alignment. I went with a .903 vs .875 lifter so adding bushings was not a problem.
The SHP or sportsman block does not have rear oil feed, so oil travels from the front to back, therefore; the rear lifters are feed first. By tapping in from the rear and plumbing to the front a more balanced stream of oil is provided to the forward lifters. I am sure Jim could add to this.
MP |
Very interesting. Next time I do a major overhaul, maybe I'll do that. I don't have any lifter problems, and I don't seem to have any problems with oiling. But I don't really want to wait until I do have a problem. That looks like a simple enough mod to do in the garage.
I'm still considering dropping solid roller lifters on my hydraulic roller cam. So maybe I'll have the machine shop put in some bronze bushings.
Thanx for sharing that with me/us.