Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
About the only thing I know about dual disk clutches is that there is some set-up and shimming that needs to be done on the clutch assembly (or at least checked and verified) to provide proper air gap when the clutch is pushed in. I assume either Brent or you did this?
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There's only so much I can do here. I put the pivot and fork in the bellhousing, dialed the bell, and bolted up the flywheel/clutch. I have no way of checking gap here since there was no way of actuating the clutch, but everything assembled without issue. The trans was drop shipped to Jeff a few months before the engine got there.
I talked with Jeff as he was bolting up the trans, and we went over checking input shaft depth, and also the fact that the trans should go in without having to pull it in with the bolts.
I'm not sure how much stroke this particular setup is supposed to have, I've seen more out of the slave cylinders I've used. Usually, if everything mechanical is perfect, then it's an issue of air in the line, or the pedal ratio is off. A 3/4" bore master cylinder is about perfect as far as pedal effort goes, but it does require a bit more stroke.