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Originally Posted by stephen low
Hadn't thought about anti sieze lube. Is that just for the knock off thread or does a dab go on the spinner rear face / rim inter-face as the two parts make contact when tightened?
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It's most important on the flat surface of the spinner where it meets the wheel rim. (it's not straight horizontal, just rest the spinner on the wheel and you'll see what we mean).
PS. The anti-sieze is extremely gooey and stains everything it comes in contact with and its viscosity makes it hard to clean up when it squishes out. A very little goes a long way.
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I guess the other question is when do you stop belting the spinner with the lead hammer, i.e. how do you gauge spinner tighteness?
All newbie 101 questions I guess but I'd rather ask than suffer a wheel dismount - DoH!!
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Whack the spinner with the hammer until you hear the tone of the whack change. It will become higher pitched when it tightens and then stop changing. That's when you stop whacking
And while loosening may require superhuman whacks, tightening should be done firmly but not too hard until you hear the tone change. After you drive it for a while whack it again to check.
Many here will say the safety wire isn't necessary if the hub is properly tightened but I think they look cool
I also disagree with the earlier statement about leaving a little slack and using a change in the slack to gauge if it is slipping. Really, the wire is not intended to be a primary connector since at speed even the wire could fail.