SS safety tie wire gauge

[stephen low]

Thanks again guys.

Bought the lead hammer and spinner tool from Bob.

Used an aircraft supply mob for the 0.032" Malin branded SS wire and had the heads up about some form of plastic sleeve protector but the model aircraft fuel hose is another good idea.

Hadn't thought about anti sieze lube. Is that just for the knock off thread or does a dab go on the spinner rear face / rim inter-face as the two parts make contact when tightened?

I guess the other question is when do you stop belting the spinner with the lead hammer, i.e. how do you gauge spinner tighteness?

All newbie 101 questions I guess but I'd rather ask than suffer a wheel dismount - DoH!!

[kyleb]

Hey Slowy
A little on the face and thread of the spinner to stop galling.
When you are hitting the spinner with the lead hammer you will hear a distinct change in the sound.
Be careful when hitting as it’s easy to glance off and ping the rim.
Watch the ends of the lockwire cos they are damn sharp and will puncture like a needle to the bone..
after twisting I roll the ends back so you don’t catch on it.
Cheers

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by stephen low

Hadn't thought about anti sieze lube. Is that just for the knock off thread or does a dab go on the spinner rear face / rim inter-face as the two parts make contact when tightened?

It's most important on the flat surface of the spinner where it meets the wheel rim. (it's not straight horizontal, just rest the spinner on the wheel and you'll see what we mean).

PS. The anti-sieze is extremely gooey and stains everything it comes in contact with and its viscosity makes it hard to clean up when it squishes out. A very little goes a long way.

I guess the other question is when do you stop belting the spinner with the lead hammer, i.e. how do you gauge spinner tighteness?

All newbie 101 questions I guess but I'd rather ask than suffer a wheel dismount - DoH!!

Whack the spinner with the hammer until you hear the tone of the whack change. It will become higher pitched when it tightens and then stop changing. That's when you stop whacking And while loosening may require superhuman whacks, tightening should be done firmly but not too hard until you hear the tone change. After you drive it for a while whack it again to check.

Many here will say the safety wire isn't necessary if the hub is properly tightened but I think they look cool

I also disagree with the earlier statement about leaving a little slack and using a change in the slack to gauge if it is slipping. Really, the wire is not intended to be a primary connector since at speed even the wire could fail.

[super]

you could also watch this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8kCWG3d1Cc

and by the way, as you said you are a newbie...

To work with the lead hammer looks easy, but keep im mind, when you do not hit the spinner, the result could be to hit the rim - especialliy when you will untighten the spinner.

That's why I machined a little tool to torque and untorque the spinners.

look:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...8/ppuser/53959
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...0/ppuser/53959

A guy from this forum offers now something similar:
PhotoPost Classifieds - Knock off spinner socket - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds

I usually torque the spinner with 220 - 260 ft lb (approx. 300 – 350 Nm), which works fine (opening torque will then be higher, up to 450Nm is typical).

regarding the anti seize: you can also try "Weicon ASW HighTech"
https://www.contorion.de/chemisch-te...171105074312:s
This anti seize is white and works also fine.

Werner

[Ron61]

To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

Ron

[HI Cobra]

I recently got one of the spinner removal tools that sounds to be the same as yours but I haven't used it yet. I'll get a chance to try it out when my garage
is finally completed in a couple of months. Looks like it should make the wheel removal process a lot more controlled.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by Ron61

To loosen mine I use a spinner removal tool that works great and saves beating on the ears with the lead hammer. It fits over one ear and hooks to the wheel and then you use a 3/4 wrench to tighten it. If it is to hard when you get it tight whack the spinner with a hammer to break it loose and them finish with the removal tool.

Ron

Can you post a picture of it Ron?

[Ron61]

Dan,

I will see if I can find a picture of it and if I can remember the link to the site that I got it from.

Ron

[Ron61]

OK Dan, I found it. Here is the link to the site that I bought it from and also a picture of it.

Performance Unlimited Automotive Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Main Lobby



Ron