Blew the head gasket!

[BlueRooster]

I can replace the head gasket on one side only...right?

I was waiting for the day when I could tear into the motor!

Any words of wisdom?

[Rick Parker]

Sure..........just be sure the word "FRONT" that is embosed on the end is towards the front of the engine even if it requires the gasket to be installed upside down. If this is a SB quirk, I appologise in advance.

[turnpike boy]

Yup. Get intake manifold gaskets, 'cuz you'll need them too.

As to words of wisdom......uh.....well, cussing is a mighty fine visceral relief - especially when you whack your knuckles on a sharp corner of any kind.

[Jerry Clayton]

Cover the fender
drain the coolant
lay out all parts in order so when you reinstall them you'll know where they go
don't set the head or manifold on the body as they are heavy
disconnect the battery
use a torque wrench for assembly
change oil and filter

Jerry

[BlueRooster]

Can I take the head off as is? I shouldn't need to mess with the timing at all..right? The distributor stays put and the whole rocker assbly doesnt even need to be touched?

[CarsByCarl]

Originally Posted by BlueRooster

Can I take the head off as is? I shouldn't need to mess with the timing at all..right? The distributor stays put and the whole rocker assbly doesnt even need to be touched?

You'll have to take the distributor out to get the intake manifold off and you'll need to remove all the rockers and pushrods from the head you're working on for removal of the upper head bolts. After the head is back in place you'll have to rotate the engine by hand and adjust the lifter preload / lash on each rocker and reset the timing after the distributor is back in place.

[BlueRooster]

Took inventory, There is a small cooling line that goes to the water pump from the intake that looks to be a pain in the butt. I think I'll just cut it and fully replace it. It still looks to me like I can leave the distributor alone. Carl, are you saying that it HAS to come out or that it SHOULD come out. Here are some pics to give some ideas.

Shows the sweet rocker assby'

Shows the little hose and the distributor.

[turnpike boy]

BR, you can probably leave the dizzy right where it is. As long as you can squeeze the manifold out (and it looks like you can), leave that sucker alone.

Once the manifold is off, and the head/header/etc. bolts are out, mop up whatever water spills in with paper towels. Be aware the head will still have some water in it. No big deal. You SHOULD check the rockers after re-assembly, tho - while they might be all right, no reason not to re-check 'em. You won't be able to get the pushrods back in with them tightened down, anyway. An easy task - once pushrods are back in, just turn the crank until you see that both valves on any cylinder are shut, run the nut down until you feel the pushrod is snug and won't spin, turning it with your fingers, and tighten the nut another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Lock in place there - best way with polylocks is to get to the snug point, turn the lockscrew down lightly touching the top of the stud, and crank the big nut tight that last 1/4+.

You DO have a hydraulic cam, right? Procedure above is for hydraulics - solids are a hair different.

[RACER X #99]

BR, Here is the best advise you can get over the internet. It is obvious you have not done this before so take your car to a professional mechanic who is experienced with Ford BB engines.

Some of the advise others have posted here is not very good. Inexperienced guys should not be replacing head gaskets.

RD

[John Owen]

Can't tell from the photo, but your engine probably has head studs, not bolts. This makes it very difficult to remove the head while the engine is in a Cobra, particularly the drivers side. Double nuts on the stud will sometimes get them out, but engine removal usually the best approach. Imagine putting it back together and applying 135# of torque to the lower nuts on no. 8 cylinder. As to the little hose, loosen the clamp on the manifold side, then when the manifold is free, slide it back out of the hose. That way you won't reinstall the manifold without the little hose.

ed: You can't remove the upper head nuts without taking the rockers off, and I don't see the need for a stud girdle if the lifters are hydraulic.

[Silverback51]

Originally Posted by John Owen

Can't tell from the photo, but your engine probably has head studs, not bolts. This makes it very difficult to remove the head while the engine is in a Cobra, particularly the drivers side. Double nuts on the stud will sometimes get them out, but engine removal usually the best approach. Imagine putting it back together and applying 135# of torque to the lower nuts on no. 8 cylinder. As to the little hose, loosen the clamp on the manifold side, then when the manifold is free, slide it back out of the hose. That way you won't reinstall the manifold without the little hose.

ed: You can't remove the upper head nuts without taking the rockers off, and I don't see the need for a stud girdle if the lifters are hydraulic.

Looks to me from the first picture that he has head bolts, not studs.

I need to replace a head gasket on mine also, but I have studs. No way is the head coming off with the engine in the car, so I'm removing the engine. Then I'm going to cheat. I'm just replacing it with a 514 crate motor.

[turnpike boy]

Originally Posted by RACER X #99

BR, Inexperienced guys should not be replacing head gaskets.

RD

Most of us learn by trying. He has all winter, so no pressure there. No doubt it would be easier if he had it done for him, but that doesn't appear to be his intent. Why not segregate the bad advise and smooth the way along for him?

[Silverback51]

Dane,

I noticed you are running dual Holleys. Can you tell me the model and size you are running.

Mine are 1848's (I think that's right) and are only 435 cfm. Way to small for this motor. I think that is what contributed to my blown headgasket.

[BlueRooster]

Silver, they are 600s. I bought the car second hand, and the motor was running well but it seemed a little rich to me. I had the motor dynoed and it showed that it was actually lean so we changed the metering block and the main jets. It got me over the 500 ft lbs of trq. Which was nice.

RD, True, I am inexperienced on a whole, but "rusty" is a better label. I know enough to be dangerous. I was quite a motor head when I was a kid, so I know my limitations. Just because I share my situation online and ask for some words of wisdom doesnt immediately mean that I am a complete novice and that I am surrounding myself with complete novices. It seems like you've been around a few race motors so give me your 2 cents.

TB, if you have a free Sat or Sunday this winter you should take run out rte 80 and take a look.

The heads have bolts, I am sure it was done that way on purpose, with this situation in mind.

Thanks guys.

[CHANMADD]

Hey!! Don't be scared,but be aware that their is only one right way to do the job.You start at the rockers and pushrods and take them all off.The dizzy looks optional but again """Don't Be Scared""". Make sure that you you keep the pushrods and rockers neatly in an egg crate so that you can put them back in exactly the same place they came from.(The pushrod ends and rockers and lifters all wear,break in, to each other.It may sound lame but if you are doing it right,Do it RIGHT!!!!.The intake comes off easy and so does the head.(From what I see it looks like bolts,and buy new bolts for the head!!)Make sure that you check the head and block with a straight edge to make sure that the surfaces are flat.Why did the gasket go in the first place??You can feel free to PM me for any help.(I have been building Blue print engines for 30 yrs,so I guess I know a little)

[turnpike boy]

Originally Posted by BlueRooster

TB, if you have a free Sat or Sunday this winter you should take run out rte 80 and take a look.

That would be my pleasure, BR. Any ol' time.

[RACER X #99]

BR,
I see many posts on this forum asking for advise and many times that advise is contadictory so who do you listen to? When someone asks a question and it appears they are unsure of what they are doing I always advise to seek professional help.
I do all my own work on my replica but I am far from an expert so I will not offer an advise myself.

I can offer the name of a great shop in NJ but since you didn't ask for that I won't.

Sorry if this doesn't help.

RD

[BlueRooster]

Thanks RD. I know a lot of great shops in NJ and the people who work in them. I bought the car to work on and learn from. Not to mention have fun with.

Worst case, I royally screw it up....then I'll pay someone. Till then Im just trying to have a little fun with it.

Thanks again for the back and forth guys.

[tcrist]

My advise, (take it for what it is worth .02), If you have not done this in a while, or never, and you want to do this your self, is to have someone that knows what they are doing come over, watch and advise you on how to do it. If it is done incorrectly you could mess up a lot of things. Right now you say it is a head gasket. If it is done incorrectly it could cost you cam, lifters, pistons and a few other items. If you want the experiance of doing it your self, my advise is get some help. At least someone that can look over your shoulder. JMHO, Terry

[BlueRooster]

I'm already there Terry. Thanks for the insight.