Johnny - I see about 85 holes in the logic you are trying. First thing, the output of a air cond. compressor is noisy, much too loud for open output use. And dependent on the compressor used, will have a marginal air output at best, not to mention you will loose more horsepower driving its belt than you can ever hope to recover.
Forget all the trick stuff and think about trying the following, as there's a history here. The following REALLY works, esp. on hot running Cobras.
1st- correct me if I'm wrong but a Shell Valley has a slightly raised hood scoop. So open the hole up in the hood scoop, under the scoop to match the scoop. Next get a 1 inch carb. aluminum spacer plate and have a plate welded to it's perimeter, dropping down but not touching the intake. Next, find a nice BIG air cleaner filter element (performance better yet) at your local auto zone. One that will sit over the whole carb. on that welded on plate and centered on the hood hole above. With the spacer/plate sitting on the intake manifold, air filter around the loose carb. make sure the air filter element is not so tall as to touch the hood. Draw a line around the perimeter of the filter you selected on the plate. Add about 1-1/2 inch to the line drawn, trim it down and construct sheet metal walls that go up to the hood. These walls can be pop rivited or welded on. On the top of these walls a rubber seal should seal the air cleaner to the hood. (aka, as a big ol' turkey pan) You will have to drill a oblong hole in the plate inside the air cleaner element for a throttle cable feed, and a fiting for the fuel line to tie to, in/out of the baseplate. I've allways put a fuel filter in that line that goes to the carb right inside the filter element. You can use silicone to seal up the works and your done with that big ol' turkey pan. The cost/quality of such a project will be determined by the materials you use and the time you put into the project of course. Put a top plate over the air cleaner element per normal, it may have to be home made, dependent on the element size you selected and your almost good to go. I would recomend you run a heat spacer on top of that homemade air/box spacer plate and your standard 1050 Dominator. The bakelite types are the best ones and the most expensive I might add, but Holley makes several types for Dominators. If you are using a standard flange Holley there are a bunch of guys that will sell you cheap heat spacers. You will also have to change over to studs on your intake manifod to hold all of this stuff together without a vacuum leak. I made one a few years back that used 3 filter elements stacked on top of each other. A Mopar 440/6 element that was so big that I had to prop up the baseplate with trimed down rubber stoppers between the plate and the intake manifold. Where there's a will,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
A fuel cool can is next, and most guys fill them with ice. I saw a guy that constructed one a while back that cooled fuel using the output from the air conditioning condenser on a car with air. He used a double coil setup in the can, and filled it with
antifreeze. Frost was on the can in the middle of summer. Such a setup can be ran continuous in the summer he told me, and he claimed the extra power he got on the street offset the power he lost running air all the time.
My new liquid to air innercooler is fed directly off the output of the Vortec V-4 supercharger, and cost me about 1800$ total with tax. Custom made by Vortec of course. The engine itself is a high dollar piece that is totally custom built, and I don't even know what I've got in it. Kinda scarry isn't it?
Working overtime and getting you car to run cool is also a very BIG, BIG, BIG piece of this puzzle. That's your starting point in my mind in any rate.
cobrashock
