Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinM
Bill,
My problem is that the modern Basecoat - Clearcoat finishes have a "Wet" look that even the best 60's paint jobs didn't have.
Thanks,
Kevin
|
What you are seeing is a complete clear coat without any flattening agent mixed in. That, or you are trying to compare a different color vs what you want in a "60's color". A base clear is the only way to go as far as regulating the true final finish. Single stage paints are just that, the color and the gloss are mixed together and what comes out of the gun is what you get. Even in a controlled environment, two cars painted in a row using the same materials, the final product will be a bit different, maybe not to your eye, but to my trained one I can see it. If you have a paint code for a particular "60's" color you are interested in, I can offer you single stage enamel, mid grade, and high grade base/clear paint mixes. Each one will have it's own spray/bake/final characteristics. Will it be a 100% duplicate to the original car, again, that depends on the car and what it is made out of. Steel, aluminum, fiberglass all will have a different final appearance (even when sprayed for the same vehicle at the very same time) as they are all different base products for the paint to react to.. What you are asking to be your final product on say a fiberglass replica body vs what is seen on an original low mileage steel or aluminum bodies automobile may not happen, no matter how hard you wish it to. Again, you need to compare apples to apples and not allow others to steer you towards products that will not work for you (like the "must have" lacquer" that someone has said is what you must use). It's all a matter of finding someone in your area you feel comfortable with, showing them exactly what you are looking for in a final product, and having them be competent enough to accomplish it if at all possible.
Bill S.
PS: My shop painted 1,103 cars last year with a 99.8% CSI (customer service index) rating..............