Some building miscellany ?s

ToyCollector · #1 (**permalink**) 06-09-2003, 06:50 PM

I thought I would post some questions that are running through my mind and get some info on what you guys did or recommend. Yes I can think on my own, I just like lots of input...which I can then copy

. Before I get to my questions I realized something today. Ain't no way in he!! this puppy will be done and on a trailer by next Thursday for DVSFIII. I knew that three weeks ago, but was in denial. This puppy is too nice to rush.

1. Any of you guys run a battery cut-off switch? If so where and how? David Kirkham recommended doing it right above battery with a plate mounted to battery. Sure is convenient and easy to do. Remember battery on my car is behind passenger seat. This solution sure is easy and has minimum length cable run.

2. Header pipes to collector/muffler connection. I "dry fit" my exhausts together tonight, and I would like a quick disconnect method where I could remove the mufflers and maybe run some short pipes for the track. Rather than welding them, thought of some sheet metal screws to do quick attach/detach. Anybody else with same need, solution, desire? I realize that the screws could become a pain to take out when heat cycled a bit. Essentially I have 4 truly independant header pipes going into collector/muffler whcih should normally be welded. Normal is not a word I understand BTW.

Johan and I took a broom handle, stuck it under the front quick jacks, and picked up the whole nose of the car. NOW that was coooool

!!!!

excelguru · #2 (**permalink**) 06-09-2003, 07:30 PM

I'm glad to hear that you decided not to rush the car. You'll have plenty of time in time.

You MUST get a photo of yourself lifting the front of your car (hey, now there's a new excersize program...)

As for the cutout switch, I mounted mine just behind the passenger's seat and just above the floor. It's convenient, discreet, clean, and affective.

Can't help on the muffs. Mine were easy peasy, Japaneasy.

ToyCollector · #3 (**permalink**) 06-09-2003, 08:23 PM

Re: the Muffs:Mine are Revell, 21 or older!! Paint not included

If anyone reads this and has any concern, please call me. The Kirkhams are GREAT People!!

GeorgiaSnake · #4 (**permalink**) 06-10-2003, 04:52 AM

TC I had a motorcycle that I could change the stinger on - it was a slip fit and used a spring to hold it together. Worked like a champ. I'm suprised what with such a large head (digital picture) you couldn't figure that one out.

Remember I'm protected from incoming - I live under ground

Randy

Johan · #5 (**permalink**) 06-10-2003, 05:26 AM

My headers are semi quick dis-connect. I'll show you next time I see you, if you see me first, that is ....

John Owen · #6 (**permalink**) 06-10-2003, 05:35 AM

Cutoff - I put mine on the firewall at the front of the transmission tunnel, my battery is over the passenger footbox. Yours should be fine where proposed, keep the cable short, and most tracks require it on the positive cable. Things to consider: Can you reach it with your harness on, mine has two posts but if you want it to kill the motor when you turn it off four are needed - the car will run on the generator if you don't break the generator or ignition circuit also, cheap ones have ended up with the contacts welded together - so get a good one - FR seems ok, do you want a removable key - nice for security but if it is in view and you leave it in the switch someone could steal it and strand you. Mine is most useful when working on the car - kill almost all power without pulling a battery terminal.

Header - most side pipes have a mount after the muffler and use the header as a front support, so it has a lot of stress on it from motor vibration and road g-force. If yours has no rear support the problem is worse. Sheet metal screws will probably enlarge their holes from all the flexing, and eventually come out. A hot cam or soft motor mounts also don't help - I had to use a semi-solid mount to stabilize my motor or the pipes would not have survived, and they have heavy flanges. May want to see if a muffler shop or machine shop can make and install a pair of flanges so you can have a sound connection and change the side pipes easily.

bmercer · #7 (**permalink**) 06-10-2003, 05:39 AM

TC
I put my battery cutoff switch between the seats. This one has a removable key that I take out if I'm leaving the car anywhere. Key out - car dead. Ther is a small black hub that sits about level with the carpet when the key is out.

trularin · #8 (**permalink**) 06-10-2003, 08:22 AM

I don't have this on any of my stuff now, however, back when Woodward was a place to check out the girls, we put a cross pin through the two connected pipes. when you wanted to drop the mufflers, you pull the pins and slide out the pipes, install the straight pipes and you are ready to rock.

Make the pin small like 1/8" .

Alex Donghi · #9 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 07:39 AM

The pipe issue is a challange on a cobra as the collector is out side the car. On my 427 Galaxy we installed short pipes on the collector kind of like 'lake pipes' on old hot rods. Ugly but worked but to see the ugly you had to get under the car. We would bolt the covers on but put washers between the plate and pipe for a little extra noise effect. I think the only way you could do this on a cora is with flanges and bolts cause theres just too much shakin goin on. It would end up looking like pipe fittings in an old tramp steamer though

Bud Man · #10 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 08:09 AM

TC:

The "original" location for the battery kill switch is the center of the rear cockpit cowling. The idea is that in case of serious accident, a track official could easily find and deactivate the switch. I decided not to go that route, as I did not want the switch in such plain sight.

I elected to install my Lucas key by fabricating an aluminum bracket that mounted the switch to the inner downleg of the battery rack. Now, I am using two original Rebats with the original dimension rack. If you are using the Kirkham unit designed for the gel battery, I still think this method will work fine.

Check out my gallery for a photo.

Bud

Carrerajon · #11 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 08:17 AM

Howdy! Good call on the Rush Job on your car. Get the Kuhmos mounted, take the GT350 and relax and have fun!!!

My cut out is in the left side of the trunk but I really like the idea of mounting it somewhere near your battery between the seats and get the removable key like was mentioned. Easy to use and guess what..................You might really use it on a regular basis!

I feel your pain! taking the spoiler off the Carrera tonite in hopes of getting it painted and getting the Concour prep started for Parade next week!

Who was the Rocket Scientist who scheduled both events for the same weeks!!!

I certainly will be with the Cobra guys next year!!!

Lew Ledyard · #12 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 09:34 AM

Good questions. keep them coming, I am taking notes.

John Owen · #13 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 11:41 AM

One more observation about cutoff switches and security. Most of them can be activated when the key is removed by just pressing the center stump of the keyhole in with a screwdriver or even a house key. If you have one, turn the ignition switch on and try this with the cutoff - usually the dash will come to life. I was able to start my car this way then release the cutoff, ran for a couple of minutes until the computer decided it did not like that mode of operation and shut down. It does provide some security, but not what it seems.
If you use it every time you park, it can help with safety. An FFR and a major part of the owners home were destroyed by fire when an alternator wire shorted after the car was parked in his garage. A cutoff switch would have limited the damage, allowing the fault to be discovered while the car was in use.

ToyCollector · #14 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 12:17 PM

John, I agree. In effect that is all that red key does is press down on the center contact to close the circuit. I do remove the one in my Mustang, as I figure it takes time for the thief to figure out, and the odds they carry one of those is remote. Time is the thief's enemy, but as always if they REALLY want your car, they will get it.

KIRKHAM/SHELBY owners:

Now onto my next questions specific to the Kirkham/Shelby crowd. What is the battery brand and part # you are using? Kirkham told me to look for a U-1, but the ones I saw do not in anyway look like a match for the tray. Also, where did you get your battery hold down?

Bud Man · #15 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 12:44 PM

TC:

The Kirkhams told me it is a "golf cart" battery. Has to be fairly long and thin to fit the tray. Optima may have one that fits.

Bud

Johan · #16 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 01:14 PM

Put a big button on the dash with "START" lable, then wire it to the alarm or horn . Thieves will mess with the button for a while at least, and might even set off the alarm or beep the horn.
A separate switch for the fuel pump can help too.

Optima makes a gel cell battery to fit your tray, and it is the same one run in the Lola race cars I think. I have a spare if you want to see if it fits or take a part number.

Lew Ledyard · #17 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 01:27 PM

TC:

What are you doing for the inside of the doors? Do KMPs have the chrome strip at the bottom of the door sill like the ACs did?

Lew

ToyCollector · #18 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 02:40 PM

Bud,

can you look at yours and let me know the brand and part #?

Bud Man · #19 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 02:56 PM

TC:

Would love to help, but I mounted dual Rebat aircraft batteries as original, and they use a tray that is somewhat larger than the tray Kirkham furnishes. I still have the Kirkham chrome unit stuck away in my parts bin.

Lew:

The cars come with aluminum sill strips. They are unfinished, and require polishing or brushing before final fit. If yours includes the interior already installed, I would imagine they will be already mounted. Either way, you may want to refinish them. The AC parts came with logo, the Kirkhams are plain.

Bud

Lew Ledyard · #20 (**permalink**) 06-12-2003, 02:59 PM

Thanks Bud.