Is this engine a good deal?

[KellerRacing]

The seller bought a 351W SVO crate engine in 2001 (the 385HP version), but it has never been fired. It has been wrapped in plastic since being delivered.

I don't know if there is any reason not to buy an engine that has been sitting for five years. Is there?

My understanding is that these engines, new from Ford SVO, are going for $7,500. The seller is asking $4,500, delivered anywhere in the US. He might even take a little less.

I'm a few months away from building my car, but this seems like it might be a good chance to save a few bucks by buying the engine now. Is it?

Here is what the seller has to say about the engine:

This 385 bhp (when used with headers and a 780 cfm Holley carburetor - These Parts Not Included) engine is the fastest and easiest way to add performance and reduce weight in your project! Featuring SVO GT-40 Aluminum Cylinder Heads, 9:1 Compression, an SVO Hydraulic Cam, SVO GT-40 Valve Train Kit w/Roller Rockers, it’s built with the same quality controls as a new production engine and includes: oil and water pumps, a dual sump oil pan, a steel billet flywheel, a high performance balancer, plus a single plane "Victor Jr." intake manifold. Note: Headers, carburetor, air cleaner, and spark plug wires not included.

Look at the features:
•351 cu. in.
•385 Bhp with headers and a 780 cfm Holley carburetor (not included)
•377 ft/lbs. of torque @ 4500 RPM
•9.0:1 compression ratio (nominal)
•V-belt water pump
•Ford Racing aluminum GT-40 cylinder heads (M-6049-X305) and GT-40 valve train
•Single plane "Victor Jr." intake manifold (M-9424-V351)
•New heavy duty 5.8L "Sprotnam" race block, oil and water pumps, dual sump oil pan, steel billet flywheel, and high performance harmonic balancer.
•For use with a manual transmission only.
comes with a set of hedman long tube headers.

So...verdict?

Thanks, all.

Paul

[lineslinger]

Why not ask if you can have it inspected before purchase, shouldn't cost that much and is a good way of insuring your investment if you end buying it.

[Dangerous Doug]

How many miles on the engine? Did he beat it to death or put around in whatever it was in before?

If the mileage is reasonable, and he wasn't out drag racing all the time the $4500 seems like a good deal given that he'll pay shipping.

DD

[luthersnake]

I would ask how it has been stored. Humidity, especially wrapped in plastic with any temp change could cause you some issues. I am not sure what a good deal it would be. It has been sitting for along time. I got my engine(turn-key) with more hp complete from Engine Factory for $2k more with a warrenty and support. You have seen it (DD in Alpharetta). Depends if peace of mind is important... Just my $.02,
Good luck with whatever you decide. Glad to see you are getting ready for the madness!
Gerry

[kayakjack]

Paul,

For what its worth, that is the same motor I have in my Superformance (had it a week). Seems like a good, strong, reliable choice. A good choice. Good luck with it.

Jack

[KellerRacing]

Originally Posted by luthersnake

I got my engine(turn-key) with more hp complete from Engine Factory for $2k more with a warrenty and support. You have seen it (DD in Alpharetta).

That's certainly food for thought. While the idea of saving $3,000 sounds good in theory, it's not like we're talking about a trivial part of the project. This is the very heart of the beast, so it needs to be right.

I've seen the Engine Factory's site, and I'm familiar with the engine I think you bought (the 400HP-351W which currently goes for just under $7,000).

I also saw this engine on badasscars.com:
400HP to 450HP 351W Street Beast: Fully prepped and machined "tall deck" 351W block fitted with ARP main bolts andʮew HD cam, main and rod bearings, Reground and polished 351W crank with chamferred oil holes, forged 5140 connecting rods with ARP Wave Loc bolts, Fully machined KB "H" series pistons, moly rings, custom performance cam & lifters, double roller timing assembly, aluminum Edelbrock RPM heads and port matched Torker II intake manifold, new Holley 750 carb, ARP head bolts, aluminum roller rockers, chrome moly push rods, HD oil pump and hard steel drive shaft and new pick-up screen, new nodular iron harmonic balancer. Engine is assembled with stainless steel bolts and is fully balanced. This engine is WAY more powerful, MUCH better built and LESS expensive than the 385HP SVO engine Ford offers. What more could you want? Great for Mustangs, street rods and boats! $5,899.

Anyone familiar with this outfit? Not sure I could say I got my engine from "BadAssCars-dot-com" without chuckling a little...

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Paul;

I have seen this same motor in a number of track and street cars and I think they are a very good motor.........

Now with that said, I would definetly have to inspect the engine and check a few things before buying any engine that has been "sitting" for five years......I have seen new engines "freeze" in as little as 2 years.....I would first give each cylinder a good sqirt of WD-40 or even motor oil and then see if you can turn the engine over by hand, I would also pull the valve covers and watch the valves/rocker arms while doing so to see in any valves are stuck as well and the lifters..........if that works out, it would not be a bad idea to pull the distributor, connect an oil pressure gauge to the motor and turn the oil pump with a drill and see what kind of oil pressure it will produce all the while making sure it is getting oil to the lifters and top side of the motor............

If all that checks out, you should be o-k..........

David

[xlr8or]

You also have to consider that some of those valve springs have been sitting there compressed for 5 years.

[Excaliber]

No warranty, but a good deal if your willing to risk it.

[Three Peaks]

If I'm reading the information right it states "Bhp" for the 385 hp rating? If true, this is probably the 430-450 hp fwhp engine, which is a great engine for a Cobra.
As far as the engine setting for 5 years, it should be easy to determine if there is any problem with it by dropping the oil pan and removing a bearing cap to check the bearings and popping off a head to see if there is rust apparent. Most of the time the reason an engine is "bagged" from the manufacturer is to keep the oil "fog" on the engine to protect it while in storage. This is actually a positive thing.

Ask the seller if he would be willing to at least have the engine checked before shipping to save return shipping charges in case there is a problem, or at least warrant to you that the engine has been properly stored and doesn't have problems from long term storage.

Sounds like a heck of deal if everything else checks out. Personally, I would go for it in a minute if you can ensure that the engine is sound. Just be sure to use proper start up procedures for starting an engine stored for that long.

Bob

[christainb]

Love the Engine Factory!!!