New McLeod Hydraulic Clutch Conversion Kits...

blykins · #1 (**permalink**) 11-24-2010, 04:10 AM

Here's a nice setup for you FFR guys running the stock Fox body pedal assembly/clutch quadrant.

You can easily upgrade to a hydraulic clutch kit by using this conversion kit from McLeod. It comes with a billet quadrant, a master cylinder with reservoir, and braided lines. It also includes your choice of hydraulic throw out bearing (ewww) or a hydraulic slave cylinder (yay).

No modifications needed, just replace the quadrant, remove the factory adjuster and replace with new parts.

$559

einstein1982 · #2 (**permalink**) 01-20-2011, 04:15 PM

What would it cost without the throw out bearing or slave cylinder?

blykins · #3 (**permalink**) 01-20-2011, 04:17 PM

I'll have to check and see if they'll part it out like that. Do you already have a slave cylinder that you can use?

einstein1982 · #4 (**permalink**) 01-20-2011, 07:10 PM

I already have a hydraulic throw out bearing actually.

I used a t-bird S/C pedal assembly and modified it to accommodate a Tilton master cylinder. This is just a better and simpler setup considering I keep destroying things with my setup.

blykins · #5 (**permalink**) 01-21-2011, 04:55 AM

I sent an email to check component pricing. I'll let you know when I hear back from McLeod.

blykins · #6 (**permalink**) 01-21-2011, 01:30 PM

Unfortunately, McLeod will not sell this kit without the slave cylinder or HTOB...

einstein1982 · #7 (**permalink**) 01-21-2011, 05:13 PM

I suppose I will take a whole kit then. With hydraulic TOB. Check you pm.

einstein1982 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-04-2011, 02:36 PM

Hey there, I installed this product on my car and started having issues with engagement. So i pulled everything back apart and measured the throwout bearing under no pressure and then again with the clutch fully depressed. I'm getting a total of ~0.400" of travel.

Per McLeod, it should travel 0.600". Per Ram, my pressure plate manufacturer, they need ~0.500" of travel for full disengagement. 0.500" is the industry standard.

McLeod also suggested 0.100" - 0.300" gap between the throwout bearing face and the pressure plate fingers. I had mine at approximately 0.130"

Any idea why the unit I bought only travels 0.400" rather then the manufacturer's claimed 0.600" ?

blykins · #9 (**permalink**) 04-04-2011, 05:20 PM

You may need to bleed it.....

einstein1982 · #10 (**permalink**) 04-04-2011, 08:29 PM

I've done that. Multiple times. By hand and with a speed bleeder. In and out of the car.

blykins · #11 (**permalink**) 04-05-2011, 01:48 AM

How far is the bearing installed from the pressure plate fingers in a disengaged position?

einstein1982 · #12 (**permalink**) 04-07-2011, 05:13 AM

0.130" - 0.180"

einstein1982 · #13 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011, 02:47 PM

It's almost as if the Master cylinder supplied doesn't move enough fluid "volume"

But it's fully extended....

blykins · #14 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011, 03:10 PM

I wish I could help out further, but it's hard to diagnose/troubleshoot when I'm so far away.

I do know that the majority of hydraulic clutch travel problems is due to air in the lines, but I know that you said that you bled it multiple times.

Did you talk to someone with McLeod's tech support?

Great Asp · #15 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011, 03:16 PM

I assume when you install the hyd throw out bearing that the bleed line is up.

Correct?

E

Ant · #16 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011, 05:26 PM

[quote=blykins;1091635]Here's a nice setup for you FFR guys running the stock Fox body pedal assembly/clutch quadrant.
You can easily upgrade to a hydraulic clutch kit by using this conversion kit from McLeod. It comes with a billet quadrant, a master cylinder with reservoir, and braided lines. It also includes your choice of hydraulic throw out bearing (ewww) or a hydraulic slave cylinder (yay).

Brent would it be better to replace the McLeod HTOB with a Tilton 600 series like I have used, I know there are threads on this and people are going back to more conventional slave type setups, there are a lot of good reports of Tilton stuff lasting many years..........!

blykins · #17 (**permalink**) 04-09-2011, 05:31 PM

I would never recommend a hydraulic throw out bearing to anyone....

With that being said, McLeod updated their design a few years back and I haven't heard any complaints out of them.

einstein1982 · #18 (**permalink**) 04-11-2011, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

I wish I could help out further, but it's hard to diagnose/troubleshoot when I'm so far away.

I do know that the majority of hydraulic clutch travel problems is due to air in the lines, but I know that you said that you bled it multiple times.

Did you talk to someone with McLeod's tech support?

Haven't talked to anyone there yet. I had bought it from you so I just wanted you to be in the loop.

I did write them to find out specs and stuff. Didn't know I was getting less then specified travel when I wrote them though

Quote:

Originally Posted by Great Asp

I assume when you install the hyd throw out bearing that the bleed line is up.

Correct?

E

Honestly, I don't recall, but I'll try to remember. If that would make 0.150" - 0.200" different on travel, I'll put It all back together and try it.

I'll message McLeod with the issue.

mreid · #19 (**permalink**) 04-11-2011, 07:06 AM

I know you already had this set up, but for others, a hydraulic t/o bearing is not the best choice if you have one. Not only do you have the bleeding issue, but if it leaks, you have a much bigger problem than if you had a slave mounted outside the bellhousing. If you decide to replace your set up, I recommend you use the external slave set up.