|
Quote:
Cliff, by the extent of your front end mods and cool motor, I figured this was a 'no prisoners' car. You are basically making a JBL out of an ERA. Consider my comments as a non-street car. And no, don't put a kid or hostage atop a 220+ degree tank....%/ |
Small dia ( ~6" dia )/Tall tank ( ~20" high) similar to sprintcar type should fit neatly in RF corner of passenger footwell & not bother pax feet too much. Poke top of tank out top of footwell to keep all but the lower feed to the pressure side of the pump in the engine bay will keep all the potential leaks out of the passenger compartment & all lines etc relatively short. Keeping engine at standard height allows a slightly deeper dry sump pan to help with crank clearance etc.
|
I bet you could carve out a nice spot for a decent size tank behind one of the rear wheels. Scott Johnson has pics of his yellow car I believe with the body off. foot well might be simpler, but lots of heat will be given off. That might not be a bid deal in the type of car you're building. I fit mine behind my left rear tire of my coupe, but I also want it to be a highway cruiser and not give someone the hot foot.
Mat |
Chas - No JBL - I thought about it, but it's a little over my head. Not sure I would ever get it to work right.
Jac - Yea, we are looking at it - that could work. Maybe have a tank fabricated that fits in the front of the box - would lose 5". Brent - Looking at Gary's - we are concerned with the packaging of the pump with the ERA chassis. Do you (or anyone else) know if this will fit with no interference with the lower control arm pivot point bracing? It is the box section attached to the passenger frame rail angling forward towards the front of the front cross member (forming a V) for the front of the engine to sit in? x-chr |
Brent - Wet sump it - Chas made the point
Quote:
|
From Putnam:
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...s0c8da98e.jpeg If you mock in your pumps, you may get a better fit idea. Again, a call to Pete would reveal if there are any dry sump 427's (mostly same chassis) or FIA's that they've done. |
A drysump pan alone never allowed me to lower the driveline as the flywheel was lower than the pan. I ran a 7-1/4" triple disc clutch and a reverse-mount starter when I had the driveline lowered. The only 7-1/4" clutch I would run on the street would be carbon and it runs about $6500. It's not pleasant to drive, but it stands up to the abuse of street driving much better.
|
Dailey engineering can give u detailed drawings to help figure it his will fit. His 302 modular design pump/pan is very compact. pump is on the drivers side too I believe. They're real pretty too. I love spending other people's money:)
Mat |
I'll give you a few days. I don't have any experience with dry sumps and ERAs so I can't be of much help. However, we used a Dailey engineering setup on Mats 427 and it's very compact since the pump bolts directly to the pan.
|
Quote:
|
Aviaid is in the box :)
|
Chas, my filter is remote mounted and my pump is on passenger side. I guess I figured they all had to be remote mounted, maybe not? You just have a single hose that has to go into the block from the pump. one hole in the block gets blocked off and the other some type of fitting to accept the large hose, -12 in my case. Not sure why Dailey put the 302 pump on the driver side, but it still looks cool. It has multiple locations on the pan also, so the pump doesn't have to stick very far forward of the engine either.
Mat |
|
Going once.....going twice......
|
Wet -
|
Get a Blow Up Doll for the passenger side.
|
Well there you go - problem solved. :LOL:
|
Well, started checking main bearing clearances and I think that I won't have to mix bearings to get the clearance I want. Which is really nice.
What stinks is that Oliver said that they would be more than 4 weeks getting me a set of the 2.100" rods. So to solve that problem, I ordered a set of their 2.000" rods and I'll have the crank cut down to the smaller journal. Much better scenario anyway and we won't have to wait 4+ weeks. For all of you who think that building custom street/race engines is easy....I'm sticking my tongue out at you. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:00 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: