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blykins 07-07-2013 04:14 PM

B2 Motorsports - Cliff Rosson All-Aluminum 331 SBF Build
 
Going to start throwing some pictures up here pretty soon of Cliff's build. It's based on an aluminum Dart block, 4.030 x 3.250, using a Callies Dragonslayer crank, Oliver rods, and a set of Mahle pistons/rings.

Heads are a set of Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Track Heat 185cc heads, loaded with Ferrea valves and PAC springs/retainers. Cliff chose a set of Webers for the top end, so the cam (custom Comp Cams hydraulic roller) will reflect that.

More to come...

blykins 07-07-2013 05:03 PM

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...psae876f77.jpg

blykins 07-07-2013 05:10 PM

Aluminum Dart 8.200" block, pressure tested, bored and honed with torque plates, sleeves set, square decked, align honed, and cam bearings Loctited in.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps580ff0e3.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...psd9ff16f6.jpg

ERA Chas 07-07-2013 05:38 PM

Brent,
Can we see a chamber-side view of the TFH's?

philminotti 07-07-2013 06:25 PM

Hey Brent, what's the bagged up, skirted block in the background? It looks much shinier than my Pond block and I don't see the black freeze plugs of a Shelby block. Is it just the lighting?

blykins 07-08-2013 03:05 AM

It's a Pond block. They look a little different every time I get one.

ERA2076 07-08-2013 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by era chas (Post 1251990)
brent,
can we see a chamber-side view of the tfh's?

+1 :)

RodKnock 07-08-2013 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins (Post 1252045)
It's a Pond block. They look a little different every time I get one.

That's interesting. It's supposed to replicate a '65 side oiler. I would assume they all looked the same. :confused:

Maybe he's making improvements?

BTW, if I were building a 302-based engine, say for a GT40, then this 331 sounds like exactly like what I would build. Lots of high dollar parts.

blykins 07-08-2013 02:34 PM

The Pond block has the same cast number and same design. However, the foundry that he uses puts a different *tinge* on each block. Anthony Dimis' block is a little darker than most, and I just sent one out that was a little lighter than most.

Yep, this little small block is going to be sweet. Waiting on Oliver to send another batch of rods. This is not a 2.123" Ford rod journal, but a 2.100" SBC journal. It's hard to get a 5.400" rod with a 2.100" bore and SBC big end width.

blykins 07-08-2013 04:04 PM

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps31beff02.jpg

ERA Chas 07-08-2013 04:21 PM

Totally unshrouded-very nice. Is that like a 56cc chamber?

blykins 07-08-2013 04:29 PM

58...........

Rick Parker 07-08-2013 06:02 PM

Callies website says the shortest stroke for Dragonslayer SBF crank is 3.5", Magnum can offer shorter strokes.


http://www.callies.com/crankshafts/d...ll-block-ford/

blykins 07-08-2013 06:12 PM

Yeah, their website doesn't show a lot of stuff that I've ordered from them....

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...psf161c8f4.jpg

blykins 07-09-2013 05:31 AM

Cliff, did you have any epiphanies about the dry sump setup? I will start prepping the block this week and will need to know whether to start laying back the pump hole to match the pump, or to block it.

ERA2076 07-09-2013 11:58 AM

The only way I would do it is if I could lower the engine to take advantage. We looked at it yesterday and I just don't see that I can lower it much, if at all. I would want to put the tank in the trunk. Running the lines did not look very elegant, but I would make it work if I could lower the COG.

We are so bogged down tuning the steering and front suspension with a lot of modifications to go, it is too much for me to add without a clear path.

If anyone has lowered the engine in an ERA FIA and can tell me about it (gearbox and differential mounting locations and pinion angle) I am interested, otherwise we will install Accusump and be nice to it. :3DSMILE:

chr

blykins 07-09-2013 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA2076 (Post 1252262)
The only way I would do it is if I could lower the engine to take advantage. We looked at it yesterday and I just don't see that I can lower it much, if at all. I would want to put the tank in the trunk. Running the lines did not look very elegant, but I would make it work if I could lower the COG.

We are so bogged down tuning the steering and front suspension with a lot of modifications to go, it is too much for me to add without a clear path.

If anyone has lowered the engine in an ERA FIA and can tell me about it (gearbox and differential mounting locations and pinion angle) I am interested, otherwise we will install Accusump and be nice to it. :3DSMILE:

chr

Wet sump it is. :)

ERA Chas 07-09-2013 01:06 PM

I see your need to make that decision. And I don't know of any lowered drive train ERA's (though a call to Peter about Rodameister's FIA track car might be helpful).
But before quitting the dry sump idea, I'd have looked at a passenger's floor location for the tank. Much shorter line runs and away from the driveline.
And you don't seem to be adding a radio and ashtray for passengers. ;)

ERA2076 07-09-2013 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas (Post 1252274)
I see your need to make that decision. And I don't know of any lowered drive train ERA's (though a call to Peter about Rodameister's FIA track car might be helpful).
But before quitting the dry sump idea, I'd have looked at a passenger's floor location for the tank. Much shorter line runs and away from the driveline.
And you don't seem to be adding a radio and ashtray for passengers. ;)

Are you thinking of still running the seat? I thought about just pulling it and moving both the battery and tank to that location, but there will be no way of talking my way out of a ticket when I get pulled over. Somehow I still think I will drive it on the street.

With it on the floor board the passenger would just put feet on it?

chr

ERA2076 07-09-2013 01:32 PM

Hold off a minute Brent, we want to study this a little more.

x


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