XKE Jaguar IRS Swaybar/Anti-roll bar
 

Hello Fellow Cobra owners with XKE Jaguar IRS.

What type of Anti Sway bar are you using on your Cobra/Jag setup.

And are you happy with the setup?

Would you do anything different?

looking forward to your comments?

Arthur

Hey Arthur we put together an adjustable rear sway bar on 767 jockeys Jag rear. It was pieces together with some nice aftermarket parts I think it's a 3/4" bar. He or I can get you more details.

Here's one as an example http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/...roducts_id=341

How do I find 767 Jockey on this Forum?

Member search under community http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/member.php?u=22401

I'm right here. It's a Speedway Engineering bar with aluminum ends on the splined shaft, 3/4" thick, universal poly mounts, and heim ends on top and bottom. Look in my build yhread and you'll see a photo or two. It doesn't help to give you measurements on it since I'm certain my CCX frame is different than your Butler frame, but I'm sure the photos will give you an idea on how to mount it and hook it into the Jag rear. PM me if you have more questions and I'll send you my phone info.
Doug

Thanks Doug, Nice setup. Mine is from Stock Car Products. http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp21.htm

1" X 48 spline. My plan is to set this up and try it and either have it ground down by them to 7/8" and try it and further diameter reduction if it's still too stiff.

I would love to have it installed where you have yours, but I have conflicts with body clearance and the arms. Just too tight. I probably could fit the stock Jaguar sway bar without issues, but I like the option of tuning the diameter of of the Stock Car one to get the ride right.

Right now the only feasible way I have come up with to install the bar is to drill a 1 1/4" hole through the chassis main frame from left to right. That involves drilling through two 3" x 4" main frames and two 2" x 4" cross bracing frames. Then insert a chrome-moly tube 1 1/4" od through the chassis frames and weld all framing members to the tube. The sway bar will then slide through the tube with MDS bushes & stop collars. The splined aluminum arms will then connect similar to yours.

I have the same sway bar system on the front of my car and like the system a lot. My photos show the installation with steel arms that I used as a template. The finished arms are aluminum.

Regards,

Arthur

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...pictureid=2551[/IMG]


BTW What kind of bolts are you using to attach your coilovers to the frame and lower control arm? See my other thread on the subject.

Also what bolts did you use to mount the Diff to the frame. I have grade 5 drilled heads for wire-locking them in place. I could not find grade 8 drilled heads bolts.

Arthur, I installed a rear swaybar on my car after eight years of driving withiout one. It made a huge difference on the twisty mountain roads. I have a Unique car which uses the Jag IRS rear end as standard. They have an anti swaybar kit they set up for their cars. I would think it would work, but you can contact Alan Weaver there to make sure.
Good luck, Tony

Arthur do you have a front swaybar? If so what diameter is it?

Arthur,
I used Grade 8 bolts with Loctite to mount the diff to the frame, and I used the stock Jag threaded shafts for the coilover mounts.

post deleted 0: i thought you meant Jag XJ (standard fitment in the uk).

Yes I have a front Sway-Bar. It is the one that Stock Car Products sells
1" diameter x 48 spline. My Gallery photo shows the mock-up installation with the steel arms. The finished installation has black anodized aluminum arms.

My bar has been reduced down to 7/8" diameter. They (SCP) will custom grind the bar to whatever diameter you want. The spline ends where the arms fit remain unchanged as does the 1" diameter areas where the pivot bushing fits.

I'm trying to make the same system fit the rear of my Cobra. So far the only viable solution/location is to drill a 1 1/4" hole all the way through the frame from left to right. And If you seen the well engineered Butler frame, you'll know that I have a bit of hard work ahead of me.

Arthur

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...pictureid=2551 http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...pictureid=2550

I'm now thinking of using Grade 8 threaded studs in the diff. This may make locating the diff into the bolting plate easier. And, as I've moved the entire IRS back 3/4", it will eliminate the clearance problem I have with getting the two top forward positioned bolts into their holes.

Moving the IRS 3/4" rearward will also require custom (3/4" longer) length shock shafts/bolts. And I'm hoping that Stainless Steel would be a good option for the shafts. Trouble is, I do not know what grade steel was used on the original shafts.

Thanks for your info.

Arthur

My Arntz has a rear sway bar that is about 1" in diameter or so. I'd have to look at it again to see for sure. It runs between the body and frame over the top of the driveshaft. The rear frame comes up at a 45 degree angle, then straightens out at the top. Right before it straightens is where the poly bushings are located. It uses adjustable links that connect to the rear lower control arms. The links are about 12" long and it has heim joints on both ends.

It sounds like you're making work for yourself Arthur. I would use adjustable length arms before I'd grind the bar diameter down. I would say a 3/4 rear bar will complement your front one. Look at the option Joyridin was talking of going under or over with it. As long as you keep the arms close to level on the ends at ride height it's gonna do its job.

Drilling a hole all the way through the chassis is work, you're right. But I really like the 48 spline system from SCP with the ability to get "any" diameter bar. And I already have the bar and alu arms for the rear. This is a work in progress and if I discover another/easier way I will take it mate! If you look at the picture you will see the bar running under the chassis. This reduces ground clearance by 1 5/8" at the bearings and that measures 3 3/8" inches to the road surface.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...pictureid=2553

So with a name like MickMate do you have any connection to Australia?

Arthur

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...pictureid=2553

I see a big ol frame and an X member. Not down under down beside ;-)

Wow..mine looks nothing like this. There is NO ground clearance issue with my bar where it is mounted.

Am I to guess NZ? If So Ron Butler the designer/builder of my car is from NZ too. He was a Shelby guy in the 60tees. Still lives in California and actively races at the age 75+ years.

Arthur

Yup there's a few Kiwis from the early Shelby days. I'm continuing traditions.