What Causes Clutch to Drag.

[Barnsnake]

Your pilot bushing (or bearing) could be bad or backed-out of the crank.

[Ralphy]

Yes sounds like somethings draging on the input shaft.

Originally Posted by Barnsnake

Your pilot bushing (or bearing) could be bad or backed-out of the crank.

[Tony Radford]

Sounds like you don't have enough travel to fully disengage the clutch (been there). I'm running a long throw Ram and I eventually replaced my master with a longer throw unit. My suggestion is that you ajust your mechanics so that it fully disengages the clutch even if it starts slipping under load. If you can do that, you will have confirmed that you simply need more travel. It's not the easiest issue to resolve, but at least you'll know what to concentrate on.

[blykins]

I would check (in order of importance):

1. Bellhousing is in alignment.
2. Pilot bushing isn't worn.

Also, watch about a long TOB travel with a diaphragm pressure plate...you can push them too far.

[jhv48]

Originally Posted by Barnsnake

Your pilot bushing (or bearing) could be bad or backed-out of the crank.

That's where I'm headed now. The clutch travels full length, no signs of warpage, slipping or any other disc or pressure plate or flywheel defect. Fork travels the full range.

I'm inclined to agree with the pilot bearing being bad and not allowing the input shaft to cease rotation when the clutch is depressed.

Will talk to the installer today. I'm going to have him remove the pilot bearing and fit it to the input shaft to see if it binds and then replace it. My bet is it will bind slightly. This $15 part is going to cost me $1500 to replace.

Will let you know if you were right.

[CobraEd]

I have always understood than any clutch should be adjusted so that there is about 1" of play from the top of the pedal, not 2" from the floor. If you adjust it to 1" from the top, you will be disengaging the clutch much further and may eliminate the drag.

.

[RICK LAKE]

jhv48 JH couple of things that need to be checked, Lets start with air gap, you need .038" to .050" with the clutch pedal engaged. This measure ment depends on the pressure plate being a diapham or 3 finger setup.
If you have the correct clearance then you are looking at bellhousing alignment to see if it is centered on the block. If not under .003" you need to have it centered. Lakewoods are real bad for off centered. Once this is done have washers welded to the bell to keep it centered if you every have to pull it again. If you break the motor and get a new motor, remove the washer and center the bell housing on the new motor. QuickTime bell housing are very close to being centered on most blocks.
For pilot bushings, I like bearings better but bushing work. You have to make sure the bushing is not too tight on the input shaft of the trans. Use a little grease on the bushing when the trans goes back in the car. If this all checks out you are looking at the trans for internal problems. 1 other thing to check is the length of the input shaft of the trans. If you have a GM input shaft, it could be too long and rubbing on the end of the crank shaft, and wearing out the thrust bearing for the crank. If you are running a lakewood bellhousing, some trannys need .380" cut off the end of the input shaft. The teeth of the input shaft could be also dragging on the bushing too. Last idea is to replace the fluid in the trans. I am going with you have worn out the clutch enough to have it drag. Rick L. Ps you can also over extend the pressure plate in the clutch and cause the same problem. Your clutch pedal may need a stop too.

[jhv48]

The tranny was sent to a transmission specialist and proclaimed in fine working order.

Shop is leaning toward the pilot bearing, bellhousing alignment.

Will let you know as soon as I know.

[CobraEd]

Jim,

Bear in mind, no matter how bad a pilot bearing is; (worn, galled, dry, tranny shaft too long and bottoming on the crank), when you are stopped and have the transmission in gear (1st), the input shaft is not and cannot be spinning and you should be able to put the transmission in any gear you want easily. Including reverse. Don't want to push it, but I still think that setting the pedal 2" off the floor is not right, and you are not disengaging the clutch fully.

Regards
Ed

[Bobcat]

I agree with CobraEd .... you measure clutch free play from the top ... not from the floor up .
Have you jacked the car`s rear end off the ground and checked to see if there is any clutch dragging ?? Easy thing to check and you can do it by hand by turning the rear wheel as you push the clutch in . If dragging , you should be able to hear it as the disc contacts the flywheel . Also , if you have a diagram clutch , you can have too much travel and push the fingers over center .
That`s the way Tilton says to set their HTOB .... push the pedal in until there is no drag and then 1/4" more to set the pedal stop . Hope thi s makes sense as the Oxycodone is finally starting to work .

Bob