What Causes Clutch to Drag.

[RICK LAKE]

jhv48 JH couple of things that need to be checked, Lets start with air gap, you need .038" to .050" with the clutch pedal engaged. This measure ment depends on the pressure plate being a diapham or 3 finger setup.
If you have the correct clearance then you are looking at bellhousing alignment to see if it is centered on the block. If not under .003" you need to have it centered. Lakewoods are real bad for off centered. Once this is done have washers welded to the bell to keep it centered if you every have to pull it again. If you break the motor and get a new motor, remove the washer and center the bell housing on the new motor. QuickTime bell housing are very close to being centered on most blocks.
For pilot bushings, I like bearings better but bushing work. You have to make sure the bushing is not too tight on the input shaft of the trans. Use a little grease on the bushing when the trans goes back in the car. If this all checks out you are looking at the trans for internal problems. 1 other thing to check is the length of the input shaft of the trans. If you have a GM input shaft, it could be too long and rubbing on the end of the crank shaft, and wearing out the thrust bearing for the crank. If you are running a lakewood bellhousing, some trannys need .380" cut off the end of the input shaft. The teeth of the input shaft could be also dragging on the bushing too. Last idea is to replace the fluid in the trans. I am going with you have worn out the clutch enough to have it drag. Rick L. Ps you can also over extend the pressure plate in the clutch and cause the same problem. Your clutch pedal may need a stop too.

[jhv48]

The tranny was sent to a transmission specialist and proclaimed in fine working order.

Shop is leaning toward the pilot bearing, bellhousing alignment.

Will let you know as soon as I know.

[CobraEd]

Jim,

Bear in mind, no matter how bad a pilot bearing is; (worn, galled, dry, tranny shaft too long and bottoming on the crank), when you are stopped and have the transmission in gear (1st), the input shaft is not and cannot be spinning and you should be able to put the transmission in any gear you want easily. Including reverse. Don't want to push it, but I still think that setting the pedal 2" off the floor is not right, and you are not disengaging the clutch fully.

Regards
Ed

[Bobcat]

I agree with CobraEd .... you measure clutch free play from the top ... not from the floor up .
Have you jacked the car`s rear end off the ground and checked to see if there is any clutch dragging ?? Easy thing to check and you can do it by hand by turning the rear wheel as you push the clutch in . If dragging , you should be able to hear it as the disc contacts the flywheel . Also , if you have a diagram clutch , you can have too much travel and push the fingers over center .
That`s the way Tilton says to set their HTOB .... push the pedal in until there is no drag and then 1/4" more to set the pedal stop . Hope thi s makes sense as the Oxycodone is finally starting to work .

Bob

[Woodz428]

I have to go along with Ed as well. At 1500 miles of street driving the clutch should be just getting worn in enough to need adjustment. Although it would likely get "tight", depending on the pivot point of the arm. That's another possibilty, if the pivot is adjustable and wasn't locked down tightly enough that could have vibrated out. The fact that it worked fine for 1500 miles and then began acting up, makes me think of adjustment. There was no comments about any "event" that would have created it. A few pics would supply more info than several posts could.
There is absolutely no possibilty of air in the system? I always c-clamp my slave while bleeding, it eliminates the clutch movement and makes it bleed like a brake system. It also seems to make the process much faster.

[jhv48]

As a folow up, I adjusted the clutch to catch everywhere from the floor to the top of the pedal. No difference. I adjusted the slave from no pressure to slightly slipping. No difference.

Something is causing the input shaft to continue turning when the clutch is fully released.

Only thing left is the pilot bearing.