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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 02-24-2010, 12:18 PM
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I agree with CobraEd .... you measure clutch free play from the top ... not from the floor up .
Have you jacked the car`s rear end off the ground and checked to see if there is any clutch dragging ?? Easy thing to check and you can do it by hand by turning the rear wheel as you push the clutch in . If dragging , you should be able to hear it as the disc contacts the flywheel . Also , if you have a diagram clutch , you can have too much travel and push the fingers over center .
That`s the way Tilton says to set their HTOB .... push the pedal in until there is no drag and then 1/4" more to set the pedal stop . Hope thi s makes sense as the Oxycodone is finally starting to work .

Bob
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Old 02-24-2010, 12:33 PM
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I have to go along with Ed as well. At 1500 miles of street driving the clutch should be just getting worn in enough to need adjustment. Although it would likely get "tight", depending on the pivot point of the arm. That's another possibilty, if the pivot is adjustable and wasn't locked down tightly enough that could have vibrated out. The fact that it worked fine for 1500 miles and then began acting up, makes me think of adjustment. There was no comments about any "event" that would have created it. A few pics would supply more info than several posts could.
There is absolutely no possibilty of air in the system? I always c-clamp my slave while bleeding, it eliminates the clutch movement and makes it bleed like a brake system. It also seems to make the process much faster.
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:12 PM
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As a folow up, I adjusted the clutch to catch everywhere from the floor to the top of the pedal. No difference. I adjusted the slave from no pressure to slightly slipping. No difference.

Something is causing the input shaft to continue turning when the clutch is fully released.

Only thing left is the pilot bearing.
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