Sway Bar Material & Heat Treatment

[CSXDreamer]

Like Ralphy said, tapping mid 30's Rc can be done, but uses up many taps. I have a guy who can mill this hard, and I've turned parts this hard in a lathe before. I'll just have to take measurements of the extensions for 2 S.B. bushings that are going to mount to the front of the front crossmember. This
will tell me how long the end "levers" of a S.B. have to be to line up with provision for the links on the lCA. I might get lucky and find one that will match.

I just remember that I do have a heat treated bar straight bar that's probably long enough. It's 52100 bearing steel that was hardened, then tempered at 1000 deg. F for a couple hours. I'll have to check its hardness. If this won't work, I'll be checking the boneyards, trying to do it when its not cold or wet, but before the snakes come out from hibernation.

[Silverback51]

Okay, try this.

Don't worry about forming or machining the sway bar. Use a straight bar and then just add fittings to the end.

In the picture you can see that they have splined ends, but you can work around that if you like. Two options. Grind two flats and use that to react the loads. Or you can drill it and dowel it. I would suggest that you use steel links, not aluminum. The bearing loads would be to great and would deform the aluminum.

Hope that helps.