351w roller vs 351 non-roller blocks

[vector1]

don't worry about the shorter deck height. most blocks that have been machined privately are usually cut .010-.020 under. if you look at the different pistons listed they are usually for shorter deck height.

you can use your crate engine stuff and put it on the shortblock, except for the cam and/or lifters--because you are going from a roller block to a non-roller. you will probably want a stronger cam anyway so that is a wash. i've read some don't like the retro cams because the smaller base circle making them more prone to breakage and flex. you can use a normal hyd roller cam and retro hyd lifters ($450 range), flat tappet cam with the associated hyd or solid flat tappets, or solid roller cam with solid roller lifters. it's when you use the hyd roller setup and switch between blocks that you have to be careful. i'm not real sure on the hyd roller options btw.

i have a pretty good solid roller cam 244 dur and .600+ lift and with a 408 an engine analyzer program shows pk tq at 4600 and pk hp at 5700, so you should be within the limits of your 28 oz. external balance.

main girdle, sell it and recoup some money. make sure the block is studded on the mains and heads.

you know you can change the heads and cam out on your crate motor and pickup some pretty good power.

i'm up the road if you want to pm me with pricing on your crate engine however you sell it, i'm starting a build but could put it on hold.

good luck.