Volt meter vs. amp meter & 1 wire alternators

[Ron61]

Personally I used the volt meter as I like them more than an amp gage. But I am also not interested in making my cars look as original as possible. You could always use the amp gage and just not wire it but I think that would mess up your attempt to make the dash look original. I used a 100 Amp alternator, again not original looking, and didn't go with the one wire type. Either way, you will have a good looking dash and should be able to make the rest look close to original. Good luck and I hope that everything works out the way you want it to.

Ron

[RICK LAKE]

mjhcobra MJ I have gone to the Volt meter. SW gauges has the match in a classic chrome ring and black backing with white needle. I don't like the idea of running 100 amps through a 60 amp gauge and having to rely on small plastic insolators to protect the whole car. I am using the PAperformace setup Heavier wiring, with a master fuseable link, regulator and complete easy instructions on how to install. If you are not running alot of power ideas the 70 amp is fine for most cars. I have 2 fuel pumps, 3 cooling fans for motor, 2 for other locations. FI system and MSD. Mt gauge is in the middle of all this power useage and gets hot. Voltmeter just taps into the charging system. You have 3 wires to install to gauge 1 power from anywhere there is a battery hot wire, 1 for ground, the other is for dash lighting. Just make sure of good connections and having a clean ground to the external regulator. I hooked my charging cable to my starter soleniod on the battery side. ONly ran it for 2 minutes found no problems. reading about 13.9 volts. Rick L.

[Blas]

Mjhcobra,
They make a replacement Volt Meter that matches the original AMP Meter for the Smiths Gauges. It blends right in seamlessly. I have a few complete sets of extra gauges at the house but no Volt Meters or I would attach a photo. Here is one source to purchase one, you have many supplier choices.
VOLT METER (52MM) PART #ABV2220-07C WWW.GAUGEGUYS.COM
If properly installed, the AMP meter will serve you well. Both gauge types have their pros and cons. A properly installed master fuse, CB or fusible link will protect your electrical system. From what I have seen, your choice in the style of crimped wire end connectors will be the weakest point of any non-factory wiring installation. If you use those wire end connectors with the blue, red or yellow plastic tips over the crimps that are commonly available, even with the proper tool, they have often been the source of many problems. Why? You can’t SEE the final crimp…And the colored plastic ends are more wire gauge indicators then replacements for stiff heat shrink tubing. The more expensive crimp on wire connectors require a special tool to properly install. Usually $50 to $150 just for the crimping tool. But they have two sets of fingers, one that attaches to the wire making the circuit and the other set of fingers wrapping around the wire insulation. Add to that a heavy gauge heat shrink tubing and we’re talking “Space Shuttle” quality connectors.

[mjhcobra]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

mjhcobra MJ I have gone to the Volt meter. SW gauges has the match in a classic chrome ring and black backing with white needle. I don't like the idea of running 100 amps through a 60 amp gauge and having to rely on small plastic insolators to protect the whole car. I am using the PAperformace setup Heavier wiring, with a master fuseable link, regulator and complete easy instructions on how to install. If you are not running alot of power ideas the 70 amp is fine for most cars. I have 2 fuel pumps, 3 cooling fans for motor, 2 for other locations. FI system and MSD. Mt gauge is in the middle of all this power useage and gets hot. Voltmeter just taps into the charging system. You have 3 wires to install to gauge 1 power from anywhere there is a battery hot wire, 1 for ground, the other is for dash lighting. Just make sure of good connections and having a clean ground to the external regulator. I hooked my charging cable to my starter soleniod on the battery side. ONly ran it for 2 minutes found no problems. reading about 13.9 volts. Rick L.

Sounds like the simple solution, I am just have to going to get past the look of the volt meter. I am running 1 fuel pump, 1 to 3 fans for the engine, and maybe another fan for the driver-that's it. Maybe I can get away with a 70 +/- amp alternator but I don't want to shortcut myself in this department.

[Blas]

AMP Meter gauge wiring is very simple. All of the cars power users should have their power routed thru the AMP Meter, if not, you won't be getting a true reading on the gauge. One large wire in and one large wire out of the gauge (excluding lighting)and if you install the in & out wires backwards, the gauge reads backwards. i.e. Headlights "use" power not "make" power - the needle should move towards negative when the lights are turned on.
Regarding the alternator sizing, Do you have any big power users car? Your cooling fans are your biggest users, then headlights, parking lights, etc. The MSD box uses very little power, the fuel pump (if electric) usually between 2 and 4 Amps (i.e. Holley red-blue-black) Most wiring systems on these cars are not even sized for 100Amp service. Even on factory built cars.
3 fans for engine cooling? Check their Amp usage...progressive activation I assume?