Garage flooring - paint, self stick tile or interlocking tiles?

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by DanEC

A question on the Race Deck type products - how do they hold up under the use of floor jacks and jack stands? Do the point loads crack it or permanently deform the surface?

Thanks

It's not supposed too. I haven't had any cracks, I have had a few "dent" a bit if the jack stand rolled up on two of the 4 legs at all because the floor jack didn't roll properly. It may have returned to normal, I need to look again. But I would say that I am happy with the performance of the tiles in this respect. You could always put a bit of plywood under the jack stands if you had an issue, but I haven't seen the need.

[REAL 1]

Epoxy. I've had no lift. No chance for water/moisture accumulation under tiles etc...

Epoxy floors do scratch some over time but generally hold up well and clean off well.

[RaceDeck]

Originally Posted by DanEC

A question on the Race Deck type products - how do they hold up under the use of floor jacks and jack stands? Do the point loads crack it or permanently deform the surface?

Thanks

Hi
You should be find with all car lifts and most all jacks. The only time we see anything is when someone uses the cheaper angle iron jackstand with heavy vehicles ( looks like this < and acts like a cookie cutter). The easy solution is to just place any small solid pad on the floor
In the event you do damage a module, just give us a ring and we will replace it...
Cheers

[jmimac351]

I have racedeck in my garage and it looks great. There are 2 issues I've had which are drawbacks for me.

1- When mig welding it's prone to suffering some damage from large fragments. These spots are not really noticeable but the product is probably not suitable for an environment with a lot of welding going on.

2- When I am aligning my car the diamond plate Racedeck causes me issues when trying to calibrate my Fastrax tool for level against the floor. I've solved this by pulling up some tiles to reach the concrete.

As mentioned, a minor issue has been if I leave the car on a jackstand in place for an extended period of time then it can cause a small dimple. The dimple is not noticeable given the diamond plate pattern. Probably less noticeable than a scratch or gouge in a black checkerboard tile.

These issues are not the floor's fault. The floor has proven to be very durable and strong.

One big plus to the floor is that if we move I can take it with me - and will. If you want the look it creates it's a great option and I think it will last a long time. It's plenty easy to put down yourself. Before I put mine down I did a very light coat of cheap epoxy to try and keep some concrete dust down. Seems to have worked out well.

Jim

[Lew Ledyard]

Epoxy will bubble/peel if there is no moisture barrier under the concrete. To check, tape a 1'X1' piece of Saran Wrap on all sides to the floor for a week or so. If there is any fog or condensation, then you don't have a moisture barrier and the epoxy will lift. Also, concrete takes a LONG time to fully cure (6 months, a year maybe?) and if it isn't fully cured and epoxy is applied, it will lift.

Race Deck is nice, water will flow under it, it can be kept clean easily (although epoxy sweeps up better with less effort) and it isn't slippery. When it is extremely hot for long period of time, Race Deck can buckle very slightly. It is easy to install and is removable, which is a place. It is very durable.

[BBfangs]

Thanks for all the responses. Issues that I didn't think about were mentioned so I have somethings to think about. I do like working in the garage plus a small part is used by my 9 year old son for sports equipment/other toy stuff so durability is an issue. There seems to be pros and cons with all suggestions depending on usage.

[ford fanatic]

I did my 30 x60 shop 7 years ago with 2 part rustoleum then topped with a clear that I got from local concrete supply house.This is a work shop in IL that gets winter crap brought in No issues at all great floor but, I prepped it very carefully with muratic acid (twice) and powerwashed it 3 times. I did another building I own and didn't take the time on Prep and it is coming up in sheets. So I learned a valuable lesson. The first floor I did was 15 years old when I did it. I have since
(3 yrs ago) did 2 larger areas (5,000 sq ft ) professionally and had great results.
The pro's told me about 50% of their work was removeing old epoxy systems that weren't prepped right. My work shop has been welded above torch plassma cutter you name it and just sweep up. Power wash every spring to get out winter garbage.

[JoeT]

I just helped my neighbor do racedeck in his two car garage last weekend. it took 2 of us about 2 hours. Looked great, and I know that they are a supporting business here. . .

BUT

when we were putting his cabinets back I dropped a drill and it hit "just right" and stuck into the floor. Brand new floor with a 3/8" hole in it. The tile was easy enough to remove (with a putty knife) and replace. but it was enough that I won't be putting racedeck in my garage.

His is more for show, but I actually work in mine. If every time I drop something, I have to worry about putting a hole in the floor it's not very practical. Nevermind having to keep extra tiles to replace the ones that get damaged. It really is a shame, because it was very easy to work with and looked fantastic

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by JoeT

I just helped my neighbor do racedeck in his two car garage last weekend. it took 2 of us about 2 hours. Looked great, and I know that they are a supporting business here. . .

BUT

when we were putting his cabinets back I dropped a drill and it hit "just right" and stuck into the floor. Brand new floor with a 3/8" hole in it. The tile was easy enough to remove (with a putty knife) and replace. but it was enough that I won't be putting racedeck in my garage.

His is more for show, but I actually work in mine. If every time I drop something, I have to worry about putting a hole in the floor it's not very practical. Nevermind having to keep extra tiles to replace the ones that get damaged. It really is a shame, because it was very easy to work with and looked fantastic

I work in mine all the time. I have extra tiles and if there was ever any damage (really it would have to be some sort of extreme puncture event like you described above, as it is pretty tough) I'd just replace the tile. Really not that big a deal. I'd rather change out a tile and have it look perfect again than deal with chips and scratches.

[Wbulk]

I built my shop eight years ago and use it a lot. I believe the the two part epoxy system is great but because of my budget at the time I went with the single stage stuff from Home Depot. It could just now use another coat just in the area where I use my creeper and jack the most.

[MaSnaka]

2 part epoxy here. The kind that will kill you without proper ventilation and respirator. Acid wash and detergent clean to get all the oil up. 1 day to prep and dry, 2 coats of the epoxy the next day. 13 years later and still holding good. No tire lift. But sawdust or water does make it slippery, so I would recomend an additive for some texture. Rainwater dripping from the car also accumulates and tends to puddle. But anything else wipes right off or cleans off with laquer thinner. It can be tinted to just about any color you like too. Mine is blue like the blue masking tape. Pics in my gallery.

John

[Gatorac]

My garage floor has 8 years worth of oil, brake fluid, dog water, diff fluid and probably even nuclear waste on it. Is it possible to clean this floor up enough to use an epoxy type system reliably? I really hate the nasty looking concrete and would love a nice floor that doesn't soak up all the stuff I drop on it.

[wetdog]

Epoxy ...my garage should be a test facility welding slag ,chemicals , dogs running and skidding with their nails, jacks being drug all over ...it can be slippery but if you add the sand it does not clean up as easily ..also dont use the colored flakes ,if you ever drop a set screw or small part its real simple to find witout all the visual clutter..WD

[REAL 1]

I would have a professional look at the floor. My floor was 15 years old when I had an epoxy floor put in. They acid etch the floor. Let them tell you if the floor can be sufficiently cleaned. They should guarantee it for at least 5 years.

My guy did.

[zrayr]

great look on the rolled out rubber mat, something to think about that I hadn't earlier considered.

I am surprised no one has mentioned permanent stick on tile, anyone use that surface?

Z.

[COBRANIP]

I got my plastic/rubber mats at Sam's (Warehouse club - several years ago approx $140). I think I also recently saw them at Cosco for approx. $165(?).
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/pr...oductId=143270