Fram warning

[ratsnst1]

Originally Posted by OZCOBRA

...NO REALLY!!!!!!
........IT'S CALLED HUMOUR!!!!..
As i said hopefully someone "SMART and not a SMARTARSE" can help!!

well I am sure I will figure it out, I just think its a fuel issue when stopping hard.

[RICK LAKE]

ratsnst1 Any change of getting a first name? Calling you RAT just doesn't work for me.
Any way Here's what is happening. You are running along at part throttle. slam on the brakes and clutch pedal at the same time.
You have cut off the air to the motor. The fuel is still begin suck in a little longer. Too much fuel, not enough air, no fire in the hole. In the old days, carb had idle kickers. They worked off vacuum or electric to stop the idle from going below an adjusted rpm when the throttle is closed. They where also used for loads on the motor like AC compressors. In the old days when that thing kicks in the idle goes up 200 rpms because of 20 hp is being used to power this.
Fuel level in the carb, it should be in the middle of the sight glass. If it's a carb with front and rear bowls the problem is the high "G" stop is pulling the fuel away from the jets on the primary side. This causes fuel starvation and kills the motor. There is no 100% fix for this. 1/4 mile racing we had this problem alot with Holley carbs. We raised the float levels as high as we could and rubber tubed the vents to stop gas from going into the motor and washing out the cylinders. It's not pretty but works.
Clutch air gap when engagement of pedal You need a .035-.050" of air gap between disc and pressure plate. Have to remember that when the clutch gets hot, some disc get grippier and will drag down the motor under stop you are doing. You didn't say what kind of control you have for the thrown out bearing and type but the engagement doesn't happen as fast as the brakes locking up. This will also kill the motor. Rearend locks up the tires driveshaft stops spinning clutch is draggiong to release, motor dies.
Any combo of these things above will cause your problem. If this happens offen, make a bracket for an idle soleniod valve that works off vaccuum. This will control the idle under hard braking.
This is one of the reason I went to FI system, computor is alot faster that you or me and controls the motor under high "G" issues without any problems Good luck Making a bracket is not hard, use the 2 front bolts of the carb for a mounting spot. The rest will be adjustments. It's not hard, will take a little time. IMO I would leave the carb alone if the motor is running good and this is the only problem you are having. Rick L.

[ratsnst1]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

ratsnst1 Any change of getting a first name? Calling you RAT just doesn't work for me.
Any way Here's what is happening. You are running along at part throttle. slam on the brakes and clutch pedal at the same time.
You have cut off the air to the motor. The fuel is still begin suck in a little longer. Too much fuel, not enough air, no fire in the hole. In the old days, carb had idle kickers. They worked off vacuum or electric to stop the idle from going below an adjusted rpm when the throttle is closed. They where also used for loads on the motor like AC compressors. In the old days when that thing kicks in the idle goes up 200 rpms because of 20 hp is being used to power this.
Fuel level in the carb, it should be in the middle of the sight glass. If it's a carb with front and rear bowls the problem is the high "G" stop is pulling the fuel away from the jets on the primary side. This causes fuel starvation and kills the motor. There is no 100% fix for this. 1/4 mile racing we had this problem alot with Holley carbs. We raised the float levels as high as we could and rubber tubed the vents to stop gas from going into the motor and washing out the cylinders. It's not pretty but works.
Clutch air gap when engagement of pedal You need a .035-.050" of air gap between disc and pressure plate. Have to remember that when the clutch gets hot, some disc get grippier and will drag down the motor under stop you are doing. You didn't say what kind of control you have for the thrown out bearing and type but the engagement doesn't happen as fast as the brakes locking up. This will also kill the motor. Rearend locks up the tires driveshaft stops spinning clutch is draggiong to release, motor dies.
Any combo of these things above will cause your problem. If this happens offen, make a bracket for an idle soleniod valve that works off vaccuum. This will control the idle under hard braking.
This is one of the reason I went to FI system, computor is alot faster that you or me and controls the motor under high "G" issues without any problems Good luck Making a bracket is not hard, use the 2 front bolts of the carb for a mounting spot. The rest will be adjustments. It's not hard, will take a little time. IMO I would leave the carb alone if the motor is running good and this is the only problem you are having. Rick L.

How I cam across all this was while I have been adjusting my brakes, not really a big problem but, if I can I would like to fix, what I will do is befor hard braking, I will put car in neutral.and I will raise the fuell level to the middle of site glass. thanks robert.

[CobraEd]

Is it a copper clutch ???


.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by CobraEd

Is it a copper clutch ???

That's pretty funny. But seriously, I've read the "don't use copper fuel lines" posts for years. But it's never supported by any serious facts -- it seems it's just "passed on" the same way the "don't put your battery on a cement floor" story is passed on. The fact that only some of the really old cars, and some British cars, had copper fuel lines could easily be accounted for by the mere cost of the copper. If there was a good reason not to use copper, it would have to be because it either: 1) did something to the fuel, or 2) didn't last and caused a leak. I have occasionally read a thread where someone claimed copper chemically reacted with gasoline to make it poorer; others say that's crap. I've also read where some claim that the heat characteristics of copper tend to vaporize the fuel; again others say that's crap. The "copper lines don't last when jiggled" argument would seem to have merit, maybe; but then why do they sell them at an additional cost and why are there threads advocating their use for oil pressure lines (on this forum as well) -- even saying that they hold up better than other lines? The fact that high-end boats and yachts use them as OEM is undisputed (but you can still find the occasional post even on those threads where somebody says "don't use copper fuel lines"). They even tout their "color coded copper fuel lines." Now, I don't have copper fuel lines and have no intention of putting them in, but just saying they're bad, don't use them, they've weren't used as OEM (nor are gold-plated contacts), and "I've always heard you shouldn't do it" just begs for some supporting facts. Even if they're not sanctioned or approved, you might ask "why?"

[ratsnst1]

what I mean is by putting the car in neutral , I will see if the engine is still wanting to die on me, so that way to rule out the clutch, my throw out bearing is a hydraulic internal unit.thanks robert