TKO 600 Grinding.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by jhv48

What am I missing here?

Everything. You've asked for help and four guys on here agreed that the solution of the problem is in checking the bellhousing index and checking the input shaft length against the crank.

Stop speculating and just pull it down and you'll find the problem.

[jhv48]

Hope you're right. Don't want to do this a fourth time.

Trying to make sure there isn't a second problem that should be addressed while the trans is out.

[ekrupa2]

Jim - I am by no means a mechanic, and I only posted as I almost have the same set up us you. I speculate this is a heat issue...rather than a problem with the trans. That clutch slave line is very close to the headers and I tend to notice a change in shifting manners when sitting in stop and go traffic. But I stress nowhere to the extremes you have mentioned. I do know when I adjust my slave (via shims), I can change the adjustment only 1/32 of an inch to induce a grind when going from forward to reverse...and now know by feel where the sweet spot is. When in stop and go traffic, first gear can chatter a bit if my clutch let out is not perfect when there is no air movement cooling things down. This is not the case during non stop and go driving. I did switch to hi-temp fluid, and also installed a heat shield above the brake/clutch line prior to my motor drop. Good luck and I do hope you find the cause of your issue.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by ekrupa2

Jim - I am by no means a mechanic, and I only posted as I almost have the same set up us you. I speculate this is a heat issue...rather than a problem with the trans.

Part of it is a heat issue. The vibration/grinding is definitely due to a worn pilot bushing or the pilot shaft pressing against the crank. The hard-to-shift issue may be exacerbated by that as well but I believe heat in the clutch fluid is a primary factor in the clutch fading and not releasing quickly when the pedal is pushed.

[jhv48]

I thought heat might be a culprit at first so I made some heat shields and covered them with reflective heat tape and shielded the clutch lines in the engine compartment. I then replaced my hydraulic fluid with high temp Wilwood fluid. No change.

Car is heading back to the installer for it's third trans-ectomy in a year. Will let you know what they find this time. Will probably be a couple of weeks.

[jhv48]

Update:

All parts are out and the bellhousing was checked and found to be within specs, .0035. The input shaft shows no abnormal wear. Some dried grease was apparent on the pilot bushing. Not sure where that came from. No seal leaks. Mechanic coated the inside of the bushing with some motor oil when he installed the second one. The dried grease could be what was causing the input shaft to drag.

Mechanic is checking the end of the crank for tolerance and then putting the thing back together with a new pilot bushing and new Quiktime bellhousing.

Will test and then report.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by jhv48

Update:

All parts are out and the bellhousing was checked and found to be within specs, .0035. The input shaft shows no abnormal wear. Some dried grease was apparent on the pilot bushing. Not sure where that came from. No seal leaks. Mechanic coated the inside of the bushing with some motor oil when he installed the second one. The dried grease could be what was causing the input shaft to drag.

Mechanic is checking the end of the crank for tolerance and then putting the thing back together with a new pilot bushing and new Quiktime bellhousing.

Will test and then report.

Jim,

The last item that could do this is incomplete clutch release where the clearance when the clutch is fully released is insufficient to fully release the disc. Usually the problem is nothing more than a little drag on the disc and can be fixed by depressing the clutch fingers or diaphragm a little more.

I think Ekrupa2 was on to this version of the problem fix when he was talking about the difference in clutch release when the car is driven in stop and go traffic. If your hydraulic line is close to the exhaust system it would be to your advantage to relocate it to a cooler position/location.

Additionally if the clutch is barely disengaging when the car is cold after everything in the can warms up you could loose just enough clearance from heat expansion to drag on the disc. Easy fix is to adjust your mechanical linkage under the dash to provide slightly more stroke on the clutch master cylinder for a little more release in the can. If you are using a push type slave cylinder make sure you have sufficient travel left to do this without pushing the piston out of the slave cylinder bore.

If you are at the limits of your slave cylinder piston travel then position its attachment point on the throwout arm closer to the pivot ball so it requires less arm movement for the same throwout bearing movement. You may have to do a little experimentation before you get it the way you want/need it.

When you position the slave cylinder push point closer to the pivot ball you will decrease its leverage and this will give you a slightly zestier clutch "pedal feel". A diaphragm clutch will have slightly better street manners from a "pedal feel" perspective than a long style pressure plate.

Ed