Roush 427R oil question?

[vipertocobra]

Im over the 3,000 mile break-in period. Whats a good weight synthetic to use?

[Bob In Ct]

I'd say 5W30 (if it gives you the pressure you want). The majority of respondents are going to like the thicker blends. I would also recommend Redline since it has 50% more ZDDP than Mobil1 and the rest.

What does Roush recommend?

Bob

[Roush #1]

Bob,

Roush recommended 5W30 to me.

J

[bobcowan]

You need enough viscosity to maintain proper oil pressure. Any more than that does not provide any performance advantage, and wastes energy moving it around.

[WardL]

Funny, I have the 427-460 SR TW and Roush recommended 10-30W to me 2 months ago.

[twobjshelbys]

I had this discussion with Roush a few weeks ago but didn't write it down, so I emailed them. I'll post.

[greg schroeder]

The best thing to do for an engine might be to carefully warm up the oil to operating pressure before any spirited driving.

Mine ran pretty good with basic Castrol 10W30 non-synthetic throughout the entire 10,000 miles I had the car. For a strong pull through a couple gears now and again then farting around the other 99% of the time the oil fits the use application in my opinion. I changed the oil about every 500 to 1000 miles.

[ha_pe_1968]

Was talking with the Olthoffs when i bought my car with a Roush 427R.
There suggestion was:
Routine: 10W40 Winter, 20W50 Summer
High Speed: Mobil 1 10W30 or 15W50

I am only driving in Summer so i will take Valvoline VR1 20W50

Mobil 1 in this Viscosity is not available in my area.

Peter

[Chilibit]

I use 10-40 Shell Rotella Triple and the motor seems to like it. I will say that rather than high speed, higher RPMs drive the oil temps up. Sustained above 4k rpm the motor builds heat in the oil, more so with Rotella than Mobil 1 20-50. Oil consumption is higher with Mobil 1 despite the viscosity. My starting cold oil pressure is 60 at 2000 rpm and after it is fully warm it settles in at 48-50 above 2000, and idle pressure goes to 42-45 at 100C. I am comfortable at those pressures and I tend to short shift till get at least 80C in the oil.

Roush says 10-30 but at 10-30 my hot idle pressure is lower. Too low? Probably not. But it makes me less comfortable. Everyone seems to worry about the track but I find that 5k rpm, second gear, climbing over the mountains on twisty roads is much harder on the temperatures. Air flow is pretty low. It is my favorite place to be.

[WardL]

With Castrol 10-30 synthetic I've got about 50# oil pressure cold and 42# pressure when warm.

[bobcowan]

Rotella was recommended for a while, because it had the higher doses of ZDDP than the new car oils had. But the new SJ oils have 25% less ZDDP than the older SI oils. SO, there's really no advnatage to use diesel oils any more.

If you have a flat tappet cam, you need to be very concerned about ZDDP levels. If you have a roller cam, don't worry about it. Just use whatever oil brand makes you happy.

Oil is heated by rpm's. AT normal driving speeds it will be pretty close to coolant temps. As the rpm's climb, so will the oil temps. FOr the street, with occasional runs to 5K, don't worry about it. On the track, you need to keep an eye on it. If it continually runs above 220*, switch to a good fully synthetic oil like RP or Redline. (M1 is NOT a true synthetic)

[twobjshelbys]

Here's the info I got back from Roush this week.

My engine was back there. It has a little over 4000 miles so they refreshed it with Mobile1 10w30.

One of their engine guys piped in with the following advice (summarized from his email)

a. There is no downside to staying with the regular old petroleum 10w30
b. For synthetic, 10w30 is still the first choice.
c. If you live in an area with high ambient temperatures or your driving style is "spirited", then he suggested a 15w50 synthetic.

Then he cautioned: always keep the oil temp below 230*F and he mentioned "engine damage that would not be covered by warranty".

My specific comments on his guidelines:

During this part of the season I definitely have the higher ambient temperature issues - it's in the 90's today and for the rest of July/Aug it will be.

My oil cooler keeps oil temp (in steady state driving) at the exact same temp as water, all the time, and both rarely move above 80*C. In fact, it takes a while for oil to climb to water.

Given this, I'm inclined to stay with the 10w30 synthetic for the forseeable future.

[392cobra]

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

My oil cooler keeps oil temp (in steady state driving) at the exact same temp as water, all the time, and rarely move both above 80*C. In fact, it takes a while for oil to climb to water.

Given this, I'm inclined to stay with the 10w30 synthetic for the forseeable future.

What to they say about you rarely getting your oil up to operating tempt ? 176 degrees F is too cool for your oil.

I'd suggest getting a thermostat or block some air flow across your oil cooler.

[JBCOBRA]

Then he cautioned: always keep the oil temp below 230*F and he mentioned "engine damage that would not be covered by warranty".

If they can't build an engine to handle 230F with ease, you may need to explore other builders

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by 392cobra

What to they say about you rarely getting your oil up to operating tempt ? 176 degrees F is too cool for your oil.

I'd suggest getting a thermostat or block some air flow across your oil cooler.

I don't think I said rarely getting, just there is a lag. Water temp gets up within 3-4 miles, oil temp takes lags.

A oil cooler thermostat is in the plans. Sounds like a winter project.

[twobjshelbys]

Originally Posted by JBCOBRA

Then he cautioned: always keep the oil temp below 230*F and he mentioned "engine damage that would not be covered by warranty".

If they can't build an engine to handle 230F with ease, you may need to explore other builders

I'm curious about that as well, but just passing along the comments.