I've been giving some thought to "blocking the by-pass hose" installation instructions for converting to Evans coolant.
I'm thinking, it's a good idea, for better cooling, regardless of what kind of coolant you use, even straight water. Why not?? Blocking the by-pass forces all the water through the radiator. For those who are running on the edge of to hot, this could be just the ticket.
NO changes of anything but the coolant itself are recommended for those with computer control engines.
Also, some suggested conversion steps, such as: full flow t-stat or removing it completely, blocking the by-pass, changing the water pump, radiator, etc. are specifically for max cooling in a race or high performance engine. Those suggestions could also apply to those street driven cars running on the edge of to hot.
My plan is to keep my system basically the same as it is now, no significant changes other than the coolant AND a low pressure radiator cap. I'll look for a 7 lb, or so, cap (and plugging the water pump weep hole with silicone). I want to see how much, if any, my water temp's go up, or down, after the conversion.
Presently, even on a hot day, at freeway speeds, my water temp (temp sensor in the engine near the t-stat) run's slightly LESS than the 180 degree t-stat. Perhaps 170 or there about. In TOWN, on a hot day, the temp will reach 215-220, at which time the fan engages. I usually turn the fan on manually in town which keeps the temp below 212. Fan temp sensor is located on the radiator, where the temp is always lower than the engine temp sensor.
I've decided not to try to increase my engine temp, all though with Evans you could without incurring a problem. I'm hoping to maintain near the same temps I've had before with the peace of mind that IF the temp's get to high, for whatever reason, the Evans offers a nice cushion. It will allow for higher engine temps without damaging any components due to steam pockets and boil over because of it's extremely high boiling point even at zero system pressure.
The all but extraordinary precautions about draining and flushing the system are for those who are currently running any kind of
antifreeze mix in their systems. It sounds like some modern
antifreeze components, more than 3% and after a month or so of contamination, can lead to "gelling" of the Evans and other nasty stuff. It's the additives in the
antifreeze that present a potential problem. For those running straight water, like myself, there is far less concern, but still, you are strongly advised to remove all the water because of potential corrorsion affects (of the water) over time. Evans has no corrosion inhibitors.
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