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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 07-23-2010, 10:22 AM
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Default Evans WATERLESS Coolant

Well, I just ordered five gallons of "Evans Waterless Coolant", including shipping costs, it was about $180. I will be using NPG+, there is also regular NPG and NPG-R (racing). NGP+ will flow better in older copper tube type radiators and has a higher heat exchange rate as well.

NPG is:
non-aqueous propylene glycol

Here's a link to a FAQ that covers the basics:
http://www.evanscooling.com/frequently-asked-questions/

I think my cooling system holds 3 to 4 gallons, more like 4 so I have a little extra for future topping off, some spillage and goofing around as may be required.

Here's a link to instructions for the conversion:
http://www.hrpworld.com/client_image...ader/683_4.pdf

This stuff is NOT COMPATIBLE at all with any existing antifreeze coolant or water in the system. It is critical the system get's flushed and drained thoroughly. In the event you need to ADD coolant because of a problem on the highway (blew a hose or whatever) you should use ANTIFREEZE (not water) for a temporary fix. Then you will need to completly drain and refill when you get home.

Now for RACING applications the instructions seem quite complex:
NO thermostat should be used, "weep hole" in the water pump should be plugged (if not, it could draw air into the system), by-pass hose should be plugged and additional complex steps (drill, tap, install new devices, hoses, etc) may be required. I'm thinking the intent here is to maximize the cooling system efficiency, which may or may not need these "enhancements".

"Daily Driver" installation:
Simply "flush, drain" and install Evans coolant without any additional steps. I think I will start with the "Daily Driver" installation technique because it's very easy.

Because Evans Coolant apparently has a strong affinity for water it is important to keep the system fully sealed upon long term storage. Like parking your Cobra for the winter. Suggestions are: Silicone seal over the weep hole on the water pump and plugging the radiator overflow tube. So the system won't be able to draw in any air (with condensate in it) from the atmosphere.

An overflow tank and working overflow tube from the radiator system is highly recommended for normal use.

As MANY OF US with Cobra's tend to run on the verge of being "to hot" all ready the "Racing Instructions" installation method may or may not be required.

Personally I will be running my thermostat, I will not be blocking off my by-pass hose and I will leave my overflow tube and tank in service. I will silicone over the water pump weep hole however.

I will up-date this thread with the results in the future, but that won't happen until AFTER SAAC-35, so, check back around September. With SAAC-35 so close it is not a good idea to try something new at this time.

Thoughts, feedback, discussion are welcome.

IF I was running antifreeze all ready (I'm not) I would simply drain that, re-fill with water, run the engine, drain the water and go from there to "flush and drain". That would seem the best way of getting all the old antifreeze out of the system, then you only have to deal with getting any remaining water out.

Last edited by Excaliber; 07-23-2010 at 02:43 PM..
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