 
Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
| S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
| |
|
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
| 5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
| 12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
| 19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
| 26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
|
|
|
CC Advertisers
|
|

09-23-2010, 12:39 PM
|
 |
Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Salem,,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100 Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed
Posts: 782
|
|
Not Ranked
A kit using a doner car is like putting a dress on a pig. Looks nice, but it's still a pig under the dress.
__________________
 Snakebit
|

09-23-2010, 01:27 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio Valley Ca,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,275
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakebit
A kit using a doner car is like putting a dress on a pig. Looks nice, but it's still a pig under the dress.
|
I heard it was like putting lipstick on a pig. It looks good but still tastes like pork if you kiss it.
All the posts above have certainly helped. My thoughts are to go with a complete kit. I'll add my power and drive train as I want it. I would say that my skill level is as good as anybodies when it comes to twisting bolts. My BIG handicap is electrical.
One thing I'm afraid of with a complete kit is where to get parts, brakes , bearings etc. when they wear out. I have an old ranch truck that is built out of so many vehicles over the years that even getting u-joints for it is a challenge. Do complete kits come with a list of what parts are common to off the shelf ? I would hope that when something wears out, I could go to Napa and get what I need. I've seen some of the mfg's say that the A frames, coil overs, rear links and such are specific to them. What happens when you bend an arm or wear out a ball joint and the company has gone under or sold out?
I think the only way I'd be interested in a used car would be if it was one of the make that I'd have bought as a kit. I'm not wanting to just settle for something that isn't what I want. I don't want to buy something to rebuild it, or repaint it.
I'm looking for a daily driver type. Probably a small block, 400 hp +-. Nothing too exotic.
John
|

09-23-2010, 03:44 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Driftwood,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary Cobra, 427 side oiler
Posts: 1,850
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by redmt
All the posts above have certainly helped. My thoughts are to go with a complete kit. I'll add my power and drive train as I want it. I would say that my skill level is as good as anybodies when it comes to twisting bolts. My BIG handicap is electrical.
|
The wiring on these kits is 7th grader simple. Hurricane uses a purpose-built wiring harness kit from Haywire, and every single wire is silkscreened every 12" with a label of where it goes (cooling fan, rear blinker, ignition, horn.) the harness comes with a 4 pages of instructions and once you read them, you can do it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redmt
One thing I'm afraid of with a complete kit is where to get parts, brakes, bearings etc. when they wear out. I have an old ranch truck that is built out of so many vehicles over the years that even getting u-joints for it is a challenge. Do complete kits come with a list of what parts are common to off the shelf ?
|
I can only speak for Hurricane but my kit came with a full build sheet with all part #s. Everything is either standard off-the-shelf and available at stores like Napa and O'Reilly (brake pads/wheel bearings etc), or available directly from race suppliers like QA1 (coil-over shocks), Wilwood (brakes) etc. Then there's all the "original Cobra"-related stuff like steering wheels, door latches, dash switches, knock-off wheels, etc that have been available for years from reputable Cobra suppliers (like www.finishlineaccessories.com) and will be for years to come. I have ZERO worry that something would need replacing in 10 years and not be able to easily source it. Frankly, I am more worried about that on my daily driver than my Cobra.
|

09-23-2010, 05:57 PM
|
 |
Senior Club Cobra Member
|
|
|
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Florence,
AL
Cobra Make, Engine: RCR GT 40 & 1966 Fairlane 390 5 speed
Posts: 4,511
|
|
Not Ranked
most guys only put 2000 to 3000 miles per year on a Cobra. So it would take 33 years to wear out most of the parts.
Now if you drive it hard, well maybe you'll get 5 years out of them.
Most Cobra parts are Ford, a few Chevie and maybe a Mopar part or two.
I think you can find all the parts in a local parts store like Auto Zone.
You can buy a runing, ready to drive, Cobra Cheaper than you can build it.
There are thousands for sale.
Surely there is one that fits your buget and taste. If there are a few things you don't like about it, you can repair, re-paint or replace it.
Happy hunting
Dwight
__________________
''Life's tough.....it's even tougher if you're stupid.'' ~ John Wayne
"Happiness Is A Belt-Fed Weapon"
life's goal should be; "to be smarter than inanimate objects"
|

09-23-2010, 06:11 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio Valley Ca,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,275
|
|
Not Ranked
You can buy a runing, ready to drive, Cobra Cheaper than you can build it.
There are thousands for sale.
Surely there is one that fits your buget and taste. If there are a few things you don't like about it, you can repair, re-paint or replace it.
Happy hunting
Dwight[/quote]
Where? I've hunted around here, ebay CL, FF5. I haven't seen anything comparable to component prices. I've ruled out a few . FF5, BB, McGill Pacific are a couple that come to mind I'm not interested in. The Hurricane still seems to be the front runner. I may find out that I have the Champagne taste on a beer budget. That is one of the reasons I was considering a donor build. Less expensive to start and pay as you build?
|

09-23-2010, 06:19 PM
|
 |
Half-Ass Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
|
|
Not Ranked
Red, are you trying to keep your total outlay below, say, $40k?
|

09-23-2010, 06:35 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio Valley Ca,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,275
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Red, are you trying to keep your total outlay below, say, $40k?
|
I hadn't considered the TOTAL outlay. It's the initial outlay that I'd like to keep down around 20-25k. I can always throw money at it as I progress.
|

09-23-2010, 02:52 PM
|
 |
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,457
|
|
Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snakebit
A kit using a doner car is like putting a dress on a pig. Looks nice, but it's still a pig under the dress.
|
Depends on how you do it. If you find a 15 year old BMW with 150K miles on it as a donor, that's what you get. But if you find a low mileage 5 year old BMW, then you get something very differant.
That's like refusing to buy a used car because it's just a pig with a pretty face.
I started with all new parts on my car. Now they're all used parts.
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:17 AM.
Links monetized by VigLink
|