Turn Signal Wire Connections

[Wbulk]

What is the proper way to make the connections to the turn signals. Is the wire soldered to the small tube and then pressed in to the round tube fitting, or is the bare wire just compressed between the two. It looks like I am missing all the small tube fittings for both front turn signals. The boxes were opened and the lights were not in plastic bags like the rear lights were.

Also, for the rear light is that ground connection just bent up to get it through the hole in the body. My manul instructions just say something like wire the lights.

Thanks.

[MFE III]

Don't know if it's the proper way or not, but I soldered my ground into the brass tube and just pressed it in the loop. If you have no brass tubes, I'd crimp the brass loop around my ground wire and solder it in.
Sorry, I don't understand your question about the tail lights.
Matt

[Wbulk]

Notice is the right picture in the tail light ground it has that brass tube that is in the loop. So you are saying soldier the wire into that tube and then just press it in the loop.
Since I was missing all six tubes for the front turn signals I guess I will have to do something different for them unless those tubes can be bought some place.

Wayne

[Blas]

I believe you remove the sleeve pin, insert the wire, and reinstall the sleeve pin., thus pinching the wire making a connection...No solder required. A little di-electric grease is a good idea. A British production line design as I remember. The old Lucas driving lights have a similar design.

[Wbulk]

So it does just compress between the pin and the sleeve. Any idea were to get pins that are missing?

[lnfletcher]

Solder and you won't have a problem down the road!
Wiring problems on the road are no fun.

[Blas]

Merry ol' England perhaps..........
.
But I would look into substituting something...
I have seen wire connectors that look like little bullets, (Both Male and female versions) usually incased in a blue plastic insulated covers (Look at Ace Hardware with the other electrical crimp connectors) that might work with the blue insulator part cut away....Uninsulated Butt Connectors might also work (Ace Hardware)
These will at best 'LOOK" correct if that is what you are going for...Or you could just solder the connections...3
Update:
Amazon: Crimp Sleeve Connectors

[Wbulk]

Ya, I thought about those crimp connectors. Thanks.

Larry, did you soldier yours? I was worried about the heat taking the tension out of the bulb spring.

[Blas]

www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/6

[Wbulk]

Blas, thanks a lot. To bad the kit manfacturer wouldn't respond to my questions on the issues or why the parts were robbed out of the boxes. Not the first time on this build.

[decapello]

I believe Wbulk's second question was how do you get the ground tab through the hole in the body. I have the same question. Do you bend the tab doen toward the light fixture so that it was go through the 1 1/4" hole in the body?

[Z-linkCobra]

Just bend the tab down and insert through the hole. Then if you want to straighten the tab back out. Not sure it needs to be straightened back out but I did on mine just incase the screws came out or something stupid the light wont fall out of the hole and be hanging by the wire.

[Wbulk]

I have done more research on the issue since I first brought this up and found that the part is called Lucas Bullet Connector. On some UK forum sites I read the debates on how to connect the wires. It appears there are different types of bullets, copper and brass. With a special crimping tools the copper ones can be crimped with the wire in the end. This is not your normal crimping tool. With the brass bullets the wire is soldiered in the end. I guess you could soldier the copper one to if you needed to. Dialectric grease was highly recommended.

[strictlypersonl]

Your ground doesn't need to go directly to the tab! All that is required is to ground the base somehow. Secure the light using a machine screw, going through the light base and the fiberglass, then attach the ground wire to the screw.

[lnfletcher]

Wayne
I soldered mine and put a connector on it wiriring about 4" back so I could remove the light if needed. I have used many of the barrel connectors and they would work well if you used the electrical grease to make sure they don't corrode.