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11-24-2010, 05:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
Patrick
looking at your pics---why don't you use a lock nut on your starter bolts???? oh, thats right---you don't even have any nuts for them----
And a pointer that you should write on the garage wall---when tightening the starter bolts on an FE engine---use a long extension for a 3/8 drive with a 9/16 socket and tighten from the right FRONT side of the block(forward of the motor mount)you can easily put 80 ft pounds torque if you want--
and don't use the arp bolts--there are specific bolts for the starter
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11-24-2010, 05:42 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
...and don't use the arp bolts--there are specific bolts for the starter
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Jerry, that pic is of these: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AR...3502/?rtype=10 Should they not be used? 
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11-24-2010, 05:44 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
nope
need 10 characters for a post so here
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11-24-2010, 05:55 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
You know what I have seen, and what would be nice, is a flexible ratchet extension that bends just like a hose. I don't know if they can handle much torque though. Here's a pic of one I just googled.

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11-24-2010, 06:02 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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they aren't any good for anything that needs much more than you can do with screw driver amount of torque--there are some wobble joints that are very good
In your pic it doesn't look like you have any nuts on the starter bolts on your scattershield---if not---
when and if you have it out of the car, weld some metal lock nuts to it so the bolts can screw directly in just like a staok bell housing---and you need the locating ring and the shanked starter bolts to insure the starter is lined up in the correct relationship with the flywheel
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11-24-2010, 06:19 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Your saying weld a nut on to the starter flange and then come in from the bellhousing side with the bolt?

Last edited by patrickt; 10-25-2016 at 08:52 AM..
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11-24-2010, 06:28 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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no --weld on back side of scattershield and install the bolts from the front like you have-
If you can't get an extension pass the motor mount to the top bolt--THEY (Snap-on, Mac,etc) make what's known as a starter wrench and they are a big c curve which will wrap around starter so you can get leverage on the bolts, but the socket and extension forward works better
by the way--that's a nice clear pic
looks like you could use a longer bolt in the lower corner of the block
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11-24-2010, 06:32 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
no --weld on back side of scattershield and install the bolts from the front like you have-
If you can't get an extension pass the motor mount to the top bolt--THEY (Snap-on, Mac,etc) make what's known as a starter wrench and they are a big c curve which will wrap around starter so you can get leverage on the bolts, but the socket and extension forward works better
by the way--that's a nice clear pic
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OK, I got it. And "yes" I read about the starter wrench in one of my old manuals from the early 70's. It looked like what we called an exhaust manifold wrench. That would do it because I can get the stubby on in a flash, I just can't get much "oomph" in to it because of the contortionist
position and the shortness of the wrench.
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11-25-2010, 09:31 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Old Ford Starter Wrench
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
...THEY (Snap-on, Mac,etc) make what's known as a starter wrench and they are a big c curve which will wrap around starter so you can get leverage on the bolts...
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Here we go... it looks to be a tad different than the standard half moon wrenches.

Last edited by patrickt; 10-25-2016 at 08:53 AM..
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11-24-2010, 06:40 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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you can probably find one on e bay or at a pawn shop much $$$$$ than new from Snap, MAc,etc
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11-24-2010, 06:43 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
you can probably find one on e bay or at a pawn shop much $$$$$ than new from Snap, MAc,etc
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That's a good idea. She's about ready to take her long winter's nap and go in to her bag with fresh desiccant until spring arrives.
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11-24-2010, 07:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
That's a good idea. She's about ready to take her long winter's nap and go in to her bag with fresh desiccant until spring arrives.
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So that means no more threads, posts, tutorials, science projects, quizzes, outdated revelations and photos for four months--right?
Wish you could take a long winter's nap in a bag like "her". 
__________________
Chas.
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11-24-2010, 07:05 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
So that means no more threads, posts, tutorials, science projects, quizzes, outdated revelations and photos for four months--right?
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Hardly. The fact that I can't wrench on her results in my mind wandering. And you know what they say about idle hands.... 
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11-24-2010, 07:12 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Well since you offered KC a premium, how about you pay me $5k and you can come hang with me for a week. I got a stroked LS motor ready to go together...you'd really go nuts on that one....torque angle gauges, metric fasteners, mixed rod bearing sizes.....oh the fun....
What would you do if the inner main bolt spec was 15 lb-ft + 80°? 
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11-24-2010, 06:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
Have a good holiday
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11-24-2010, 07:38 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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No, they're not.
The LS main fasteners (except for the cross bolts) use a lb-ft + degree spec for loading. Not your normal way of torquing main bolts....and it takes forever.
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11-24-2010, 08:27 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
That's because there are no lock washers!!!!
Brent, if you are going to do many of the LS series engines you need to get a couple of the Snap On TechAngle torque wrenches---3/8 drive goes to around 75# and the 1/2 drive goes to 250# I think--they can be set for the torque value plus the angle, will beep and show you the torque and angle reached---little bit $$$$$$ but something you need if doing work on these engines----
Wait till you get to the dampner bolt!!!!!
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11-24-2010, 08:30 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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I figured you'd have some good tips and tricks on that Jerry.
I've got a 402 on the stand and an LS2 sitting in the shop to do...it spun #6 rod bearing, ran the lower bearing shell up under the top bearing shell...
I think I'd like to stick with Ford stuff.... 
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11-24-2010, 08:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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Not Ranked
Brent--they are neat power plants---We (son Corey) does the tuning for the Nickey Chev guy on the new Camaros---
Snap On part numbers are Atech2fr100a and Atech3fr250a for the 3/8 and 1/2 -----
1/2 is kind of heavy and doing all the head studs while torque plate honing them is sort of a work out, but when you get to that dampner bolt it is really needed-
look them up and check e bay---
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11-24-2010, 09:22 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Patrick: Use the ARP bolts, flat washers and 262 Locktite, you won't have to touch it again until it's time for a replacement. If you aren't using one already, gIve some thought to a Mini starter, you'll have more room around it. But your Post count will then suffer....
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
Last edited by Rick Parker; 11-24-2010 at 09:25 PM..
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