Cobra weight distributions?

[Jerry Clayton]

Scott

getting ready to resume work on mine and really would like your list of shock / spring specs as it seems I can't find them---
I'll try to get a picture of the F1-r Pro Charger posted along with the dry sump stuff

[Jerry Clayton]

just remember that all this weight placement ratios is just a starting point if your racing(or is necessary to meet the rules)

Out top fueler and funny car frames were welded in an certain pattern to give about 1/2 inch of twist to them to then compensate for engine torque

[vector1]

think you can do better then that.. bought my qa1 dbl adjustables from autofab race cars for 250 ea. in md. close to you. there's probably different brands if you shop around, like behrents, lefthander chassis, coleman, etc.

if you need extra spring clearance and want to use 2 1/4 springs theres a place in florida, van steel, inc. 727-561-9199, that makes the adjusters for these shocks for 2 1/4 springs, or you could use a lathe and make your own from 2 1/2 perches, i didn't have the option.

i have the above, and they are adjustable, i don't know how good they are though.

[Dominik]

I also built one car on scales, but I gave up on 50/50 left and right. It's quite amazing how weight adds up: Body, chassis, aluminium engine, differential, trans +/- 1.000lbs, and you think you are "done". Next moment it doubles...

The chassis (RAM) did not encourage offsetting the drivetrain, but placing the battery on the far right probably has the same effect.

[RICK LAKE]

RET_COP Lou Here is the easy thing to do, The front shocks you will drive on the street with will give you an easier smoooth ride and drive at the track front shocks will have different settings (stiffer). You want the car to squat in the rearend a little when accelling the car. I get about 1-2" drop in the back end. The tires, 335's are not rubbing on the frame or body. This gives me good traction on take off. There is still too much weight transfer on hard braking. I raised the spring rates 30% in front. The easy thing to do is get the car scaled with both sets of front springs and try and keep the car at the same ride height. This way the alignment will not have to be adjusted. Swapping springs will take any where from 3-4 minutes up to 10-15 minutes depending on mounting fasteners. Some guys run quick pins. I stay with aircraft nuts. Rick L Ps IMO unless you are running the same company replica with everything beening equal, You are going to have to street the car, then race it and watch film of it to learn what it is doing on the track. Taking heat temps of the tires is a good place to start. Record all this info and DO ONLY 1 ADJUSTMENT at a time to see if it's better, same or worse. It's alot of work but having a great handling car at the end makes all the trouble worth while.

[dlampe]

The most important number is diagonal balance according to what I have read and felt from the seat. You can't move weight from left to right or visa versa or you can't move weight front to back and visa versa with spring adjustments on the scales. You can adjust the diagonal balance with the spring adjustments. That is why I just don't believe a stock or even mostly stock cobra from any manufacturer with a driver in the seat is going to be 50/50. I have the scales and I have played with this stuff for days at a time. In the end, the best I could do was 50/50 diagonal weight distribution and 48/52 front to back. By the way, my GT40 was a seriously race prepped car and it was 49/51 front to back.

[STL Mark]

For the side to side measurement - I was not in the car.
Sorry for the confusion.

My main point was that the SPF was basically perfect right out of the box.

[Learjockey1]

Try this link for a few samplings

http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/...c,5722.45.html