t 5 overhaul

hinoonaz · #1 (**permalink**) 02-03-2011, 07:47 PM

I pulled the t5 today. Wasn't bad at all because of the lift. I even sealed the output so no fluid went all over the place. I believe i found a 2 possible sources for the contining oil leak. The bolts holding the flywheel on probably had locktite but nothing else. The rear seal is proud of the block by 15 or 20 thousands. Will replace seal. What type of sealer for the flywheel bolts to make sure? I do not want to do this again.
Will be checking out the gears late tomorrow with someone who knows what to look for other than the obvious.

Thxs Gary

Racer_X · #2 (**permalink**) 02-03-2011, 09:40 PM

Teflon tape wrapped around the bolts prior to install. Usually 3-4 wraps per bolt should do the trick.

Gaz64 · #3 (**permalink**) 02-03-2011, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Racer_X

Teflon tape wrapped around the bolts prior to install. Usually 3-4 wraps per bolt should do the trick.

I wouldn't be using thread tape on flywheel bolts.

First up, are the bolt holes blind?

If they are, they don't need a sealer as such, but I would still apply a loctite to the threads and torque them to spec.

I'd nearly bet your crank rear flange is out round, the seal cannot keep the oil in the engine if this is the case.

Mount a dial indicator on the seal surface and turn the engine by hand.

hinoonaz · #4 (**permalink**) 02-04-2011, 07:13 AM

Thxs for suggestions. The 6 holes on crank go thru the flange on the crank.

That is interesting about the dial indicator. Will try and locate one to confirm clearances. What would be the runout for this measurement? Also, is the teflon seal the best or? There was another thread recently about this or maybe i came across it in my search.
thxs

Racer_X · #5 (**permalink**) 02-04-2011, 08:31 AM

He's running a small block. As the OP stated, the bolt holes do go thru into the crankcase. Being it's a 347, most likely he has a Scat or similar stroker crank and they are very high quality with regard to machining tolerances.

That said, teflon tape to "seal" the bolt holes has been an accepted practice on small block Ford engines as long as I can remember and I've been wrenching on them over 25 years. Never had a leak using this method either. That's why it was suggested. A solution based upon real world experience.

With regard to the T5 gears, check for lateral play. MAke sure the throwout bearing snout isn't galled. Hopefully you have the steel input snout, they are a much better piece. Check for brass or dark bits in the T5 fluid (should be ATF for a Ford T5). Shouldn't be any brass or friction material (dark bits) in the ATF. Fluid shoud be a nice cherry red like when fresh out of the bottle. Might want to replace the input shaft seal on the trans while you have it apart. Cheap insurance.

hinoonaz · #6 (**permalink**) 02-04-2011, 12:46 PM

I definitely like old school tricks of the trade stuff, like teflon tape. Will replace front seal. I will have him check for galling on front shaft . Appears to be steel.
thx gary

hinoonaz · #7 (**permalink**) 02-05-2011, 05:28 AM

The verdict is in. Second gear is being replaced and the snout is also (aluminum) along with the stamped plate holding shaft with an machined aluminum piece. Dang, billet and won't be able to see it. Otherwise the gears looked real good. The trans fluid was clear and cherry red also. As evident in the bed of my truck. Self-serve car wash today.

Racer_X · #8 (**permalink**) 02-05-2011, 07:23 AM

Congrats. You shouldn't have any problems from leaking or the trans anymore. T-5's are hard on 2nd gear for the torque multiplication. The advantage here is it's powering a Cobra which is much lighter than a Mustang. Once you approach or exceed 350 Hp/Tq. at the flywheel, the T-5's usefulness is exceeded. You might look at a 3550 if you have any more issues as it has a much higher torque rating.

Glad to hear the fluid was OK, it's a telltale sign of any issues whether in automatic or standard trans.

hinoonaz · #9 (**permalink**) 02-05-2011, 04:06 PM

Thanks for all the encouragement. I just didn't want to drop 2 or 3 grand on a 600 or gordons bullet proof t5 right now. I don't power shift that is why it has stayed together so long anyway. No racing except to tortilla flats and on ramps.
thx

hinoonaz · #10 (**permalink**) 02-09-2011, 04:24 PM

I got the tranny back in last night and oiled up today for test run. What a difference. Smooth and very effortless on shifting. Obviously not the way it was. I must have just got use to stiffness and synchros not doing well. I am sure glad i had it rebuilt. thxs gary