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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2011, 08:47 PM
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Location: East Bay, CA
Cobra Make, Engine: B&B,351w
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Default Question on T5 removal & replacement

Hey people, I've always had autos in my muscle cars but my B&B cobra has a T5 that is in need of repair. Clutch, TO bearing etc have about 5k miles, T5 has unknown and tag shows it's an '89. CABLE operated clutch, not hydraulic.

My question remove and replace the tranny only, can I just:

1) remove drive shaft
2) put jack under tranny
3) remove tranny mount
4) unbolt T5 from bellhousing
5) remove T5 straight out
6) replace with new.

Do I need to worry about the TO bearing dropping into the bell housing when I remove T5? Any other things to look out for or do?

Thanks guys!
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-04-2011, 09:16 PM
Wbulk's Avatar
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Cobra Make, Engine: 66 Cobra
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I would drain the trans oil so it doesn't go everywhere. Also, unbolt the shift handle and the speedo cable.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2011, 06:13 AM
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Location: Broken Arrow. OK ( South Tulsa), USA, OK
Cobra Make, Engine: 66 COBRA FE 427 /4SP. (HCS Coupe w/ 408 Stroker and TKO 600 -sold)
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The cable operated clutch is not bad and if it works then I would stay with the cable. As far as worring about the TO Brg -don't. It will probably fall out and that's ok, bell housing has to come off too if you are replacing clutch. Try this procedure:

1. remove shifter for ease
2. remove driveshaft after removing rear U-Joint
3. remove trans support brace (two side bolts and two trans bolts)
4.remove 4 1/2" trans bolts and stuff rags in tail shaft of trany if you have not drained the fluid
(some people have tie wrapped a baggie around the tail shaft to keep fluid from draining out.)
5. use trans jack or floor jack and slide trans back (unless frame has changed you will need to lift the tail shaft over the rear X Frame to get the T-5 back far enough for the pilot shaft of the transmission to clear the bell housing
6. remove the cable clip from the drivers side of the bell housing
7. remove the 6 bell housing bolts & remove BH (get the top two bolts from top of engine compartment)
8. remove the six bolts around your pressure plate and remove clutch and PP.
9. inspect clutch for oil or debris or wear.
10. make sure the engine is NOT leaking oil at the rear main (that will ruin your clutch disc).
11. Inspect you fly wheel for excessive bluing or signs of oil (it may need to be turned by a machine shop)
12. Make sure to replace your clutch with the same size disc as you are taking off and be sure to face your clutch in the right direction during re-install.

Did Bryan supply this engine to you or did you have the engine built in CA? 5,000 miles is not very many miles to need a new clutch unless your rear main has failed.

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Last edited by Clois Harlan; 07-05-2011 at 06:20 AM..
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2011, 07:16 AM
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Sorry I wasn't clear in my post. Everything is fine EXCEPT 4th gear in the transmission. It won't downshift from 5th to 4th and I've had it looked at by another shop....cheaper to replace than go through and try to find problem.

Clutch, TO bearing, etc are all fine, they work great.

So I just need to literally r/r the transmission itself. If I don't have to mess with the TO bearing, clutch, etc I don't want too.

I've already replaced the drive gear inside the T5, so I'm familiar with removing tail housing, shifter, etc.

Thanks guys!
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2011, 09:32 AM
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The t/o bearing will not fall out. It is held by the fork. ALso, the clutch will maintain alignment as it is clamped by the pressure plate. Use the order above and a new T5 will bolt right in. If you are upgrading to a TKO you will need a new bellhousing and with a TKO600, a new clutch disk.
RCR GT40 SOLD to Fast 5
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bellhousing, clutch, to bearing, transmission

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