Cooling Issue?
 

I have had my Shell Valley Cobra for a short time, and like many I read about it seems to run to hot for my thinking
It has a 16" electric fan with an adjustable off-on switch which is working as it should.
Engine is a 429. Thermostat was a 180 which I changed to a 160 with little help. (new radiator 13 lb cap to).
The temp guage (S.W.) will read about 190 on the highway, but climb to 210-220 sitting at a light and if I happen to get home while its still reading the higher temp it will spit antifreeze from the overflow tank.
Thought I would try a 6 blade metal fan, and next a new 2 fan 2500 cmf electric fan on the radiator.
Suggestions or comments?
Thanks to all in advance.
Mike P.

I assume you are running a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze with some water wetter in it. Also, you need to move up to a higher pressure cap as 13 is too low. I run a 16 and many are running higher then that. Make sure you have some good engine compartment seal ie the air is going into the radiator vs over and into the engine compartment. Last would be some bigger fans but I think the cap would stop it from spitting out.

Is your radiator shrouded? Do you have a pusher or puller fan? What temp does the fan come on?

If not shrouded. Shroud it. If the radiator is up to the task, a shroud will maximize it's use. If shrouded, upgrade the fan cfm. Dual fans could also help.

Lastly, why the 160 thermostat? In the winter, you won't give your engine a chance to warm up to normal operating temperature. 180 would seem to be a better fit.

I'm using a 50/50 mix for the coolant, and a bottle of water wetter.
I will try the 16# cap and see if that helps.
Fan does not have a shroud. Are there any pre made or does a person make their own?
The fan is a puller.
Last resort will be a dual fan setup.
Thanks to all.
P.S. no winter driving here, in fact not after October as it starts getting pretty cold.

The 16 pound cap will hep contain the coolant, but you need to bring down the temp also.

Either build or buy a shroud and then test. Should be fine after that.

Mike , call a radiator manufacture of your choice and ask for there engineering department and give them the info on the size of your radiator , fan cfm ect. I think you will find like me the radiator , fan that came with the car is not near the right size nor is the fan . I did and they told me it was a : low bidder radiator and fan: and not up to handling an FE or a 429 .

Go with a Ford Taurus Fan, it comes with it's own shrold and fits on cobras just fine. It is a two speed deal (2500 low/4500 high). All you need is a HD wiring set up and your good to go. The entire thing will cost you less than $200.00 for all new parts on Amazon.

Check out the numerous discussions on this site regarding cooling on FE and big block cobras. This will solve your heating problems because you can control the temp. before it gets out of hand.
Bill

I agree with the Taurus fan, but before you do that, try a simple fix that worked for me in Texas with a Shell Valley and a 460 CI motor: I took off the puller fans, got some rubber tubing (1/4"?), split it with a razor and slipped it over the plastic shroud on the puller fans, then reinstalled it against the back of the radiator...voila, dropped the temp to normal under all but the most extreme long-term idling, simply from sealing the fan to the radiator. I also sealed the radiator sides to the body to make sure the air going into the front went through the radiator, but that helps when the car is moving, and you don't seem to have that problem. Let us know what solves your problem.

+100

An unshrouded fan is at best working at 25% it's capacity!!!!!!!!

David

Is there a specific year Taurus that fits and works well?
How do you know if the unit is a 2 speed, and will it automatically run at the higher speed when needed?
Thanks again to all.
Mike P.

After reading your post and replys the other day I did a few searches and it appears many are using the 1995 3.8L Ford Taurus fan assembly. Looks like you can buy it from Amazon.com #620-101

Everyone is correct on the shroud and the choice of a Taurus fan.

I will add to check your pulley ratios. For the street, you want a 1 : 1.3 ratio of crank pulley to water pump pulley. You need to move more water at a faster rate through the radiator. You will not miss that 3 HP at high RPM.

Also, a properly installed surge tank (not an overflow tank) will purge the system of all air and provide a cushion of air to be a shock absorber for pressure surges.

Mike;
Take a few minutes and read this thread,it'll answer most all your questions........

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/shop...n-install.html

Ditto on your pulley size.....your water pump pulley should be 1 to 2 inches less diameter than your crank pulley,regardles of their size..

David

OK, here is the information regarding the Ford taurus 2-speed fan with built in shrold.

Amizon : Ford Taurus fans - Dorman OE solutions radiator Fan Assembly
New 620-101 $88.11 + shipping

www. hollisterroad.com - Mark VIII Taurus relay Kit 2 - speed fan
$69.95 + shipping
(713) 937-0387

Check it out, look closely at the shape of the fan shrold for 620-101, this is the shape that fits most cobras.
Good luck, Bill

I have a 429 in mine and its almost ready to be put on the street for first time since I bought it so I'm not sure how it will work, It has a 6 core radiator sitting at a angle with 2 fans, 0ne is pusher and other is puller. I installed 195 degree thermostat. Car has been sitting since 2006.

On my 66 Lemans when I got it last year. It has 468 BB Pontaic. ran 240 plus within 10 mins and even higher unless you shut it off. It had Thermostat retrictor, electric fan and water pump, I install 195 thermostat, stock water pump, 6 blade fan, and made my own fan shroud, it run 195 and will go up to 210 at lights. I don't consider 210 to hot in our Tucson, AZ summer heat.
Jay

Great detailed info on the Taurus fan out of the Hurricane Camp. Of the 50 cars or so already tearing up the streets, about 10 or so have made the Taurus fan w/ shroud modification.

Regarding the 160 degree thermostat, been there, done that. Pull it and go back to a quality 180. In the heat of the summer, when the 160 stat cycles, the coolant in the radiator hasn't had time to cool adequately before it is cycled back to the engine. The 180 allows it to stay in the radiator a little longer, etc.

I know it seems counterintuitive, but your car will run cooler with a higher temperature thermostat.

I got mine off the jack stands today after few minor repairs to stop leaks in new lines. Drove it for the first time short drive, seems to be running about 180/190, fans are coming on when it reaches 180. Waiting on paper work so I can tag it without emissions. then go for longer drive. I'm happy with progress..start real good and transmission shifting good. With car sitting since 06, and not being able to talk to last owner, I wasn't sure what I was getting into. will let you know how it runs next week.....Jay

I may try this fan on my Griffin radiator as well, for my LSC Cobra. I've heard it's a great and well liked fan.

Is this the exact model ? 620-101

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...YaAuuREALw_wcB

Since your temp is 190 on the highway you get enough air while driving. I would shroud only the bottom and the sides to let fresh air circulate over the valve covers. Loads of cooling happens via the motor surface. That will also reduce under-hood temperature.

Check your temperature at 35 mph, which should remain at 190. Then you know you get enough air while in motion. Disconnect the fan.

Under 35 mph (every car is different) your fan takes care of the cooling. Basically you must be able to let the car idle endlessly and the fans do their work. At idle, since your motor is producing very little hp and heat, almost any radiator should be able to cool your car.

The real test comes in like this:
WOT on the highway (4.500 rpm and up) for a few minutes, leave the highway and end up at a red light and have to wait for three phases to make it over. Now your radiator and fans have to show what they can. This can be nerve wrecking.

Is your timing correct? Especially at idle and part throttle.

Lastly, IF you can go WOT on the highway and see a slow climb in water temp, this may actually be your oil heating up the water. Then you need an oil cooler.

And: While you have an indication about boiling, because your cap lets coolant out, verify your temperature gage reading! Wouldn't be the first one which is incorrect.

What do you know about your engine build? I've seen these engines run flawless in the Texas and Oklahoma summers but the one thing that comes to mind is that non of those engines were bored no more than .030 over stock. Timing also comes to mind also your air fuel ratio could have a minimal effect too. I agree with the Taurus fan and shroud.

Maybe Keith Craft or Blykins can offer some others. Good luck, I've been where you're at with my first 428 that was bored .060 over.

Clois Harlan